ost as long a pile as some
varieties of plush. The famous cope of English work known as the Bowden
cope, of which a detail is given in Plate I., is an excellent
illustration of this point. Upon careful examination of the work it is
apparent that between the stitching and the velvet there is a layer of
material, composed either of fine linen or silk. This would be of great
help in the carrying out of the stitching. It is exceedingly probable
that this layer of fine material was at the commencement of the work
laid completely over the velvet background of the cope; for one thing,
the design, with its finely drawn detail, could easily be perfectly
traced upon a surface of this kind and only imperfectly upon velvet;
another advantage of this method would be, that the background would be
kept quite free from dust and from getting soiled by the hands during
the lengthy process of the work. The stitching would be carried through
all the surfaces, and when finished, the fine surface layer would be cut
away close round the edges of the design, which would be quite easily
done. This method of working upon a difficult ground is well worth
trying in place of the applied method.

To return to the discussion of applied embroidery--let us suppose the
embroidered piece to be just completed on its linen ground, still
stretched in the frame in which it was worked. In another frame, stretch
the background material and trace upon it the exact outline of the piece
to be applied. Cut out the embroidered piece carefully round the edge,
allowing about one-sixteenth of an inch margin outside the worked part,
leaving, if necessary, little connecting ties of material here and
there for temporary support. With fine steel pins or needles fix the
cut-out work exactly over the tracing already made on the ground
material, then make it secure round the edge with rather close stitches
of silk placed at right-angles to the outline; with fine materials the
raw edge of the applied part can be neatly tucked under and fixed in
place by this overcast stitch. A cord is next sewn on to hide the fixing
and give a finish to the edge. The colour of this cord is important,
since its colour may increase the expanse of either the applied part or
the ground. Sometimes a double cord is put round, and in this case the
inner one is attached to the embroidery before it is cut out of the
frame, and the second attached afterwards. The inner one is often of a
colour predomin