g the passing for the first stitch over one bar only, and for the
remainder of the line over the two as before. This process repeated
makes the wicker-like pattern so frequently seen in gold work. It can be
used as a filling or as a border. It is evident that with the same
arrangement of strings many other patterns could be carried out by
varying the points of couching down.

[Illustration: Fig. 136.]

Another way in which string is used for padding the gold is illustrated
in fig. 137. The pattern, which in the first part is two diamond shapes
and a border line, is laid down in string. The doubled gold thread is
then taken horizontally to and fro in close parallel lines over the part
to be worked, and fixed by couching stitches at necessary intervals;
wherever else these stitches may be put, one must always be placed upon
each side of a raised line to make it sharp and clear. Other kinds of
padding are used in this method of work; for instance, a lozenge shape
may be stuffed with layers of soft cotton, as shown in the second part
of this same diagram. Sometimes most complicated patterns are laid down
in string and covered with gold thread in this way, _e.g._:--fig. 138
shows an interlacing pattern taken from the border of an orphrey upon a
XVth century chasuble.

[Illustration: Fig. 137.]

THE USE OF FANCY GOLD THREADS

A cursory glance must be given to the use of purls and other fancy
threads, but these are mostly used nowadays for badges on uniforms, or
for masonic purposes, and are carried out by the trade. These threads,
when tarnished, are very difficult to clean, they easily turn a bad
colour and catch the dust, and for real embroidery purposes are not as
satisfactory as the plainer threads.

[Illustration: Fig. 138.]

Purl and bullion must be cut very accurately into pieces of the required
size, and attached to the material as a bead would be. The metal must be
as little as possible touched with the fingers; the cut pieces can be
placed upon a tray lined with some soft springy substance, such as felt,
in order to be easily picked up with the point of the needle, and they
can be adjusted to their right position upon the work by the aid of the
flat end of the piercer; unnecessary handling may be avoided in this
way.

These threads, laid over padding either straight across or at an angle,
may be used for the stems or petals of conventional flowers. The various
kinds, dull, bright, and check, may perhaps