it; sometimes, in lieu of this, a pattern
is cut out in stiff cardboard. Lay this pattern-shape on the wrong side
of the material and pencil it round, then carefully cut out the stuff,
leaving about a quarter of an inch for turning in. Next lay the
pattern-shape upon a piece of stiff paper or thin card-board and again
trace off the shape, this time cutting it out exactly to the pattern,
tack the material to the paper, and stitch down the raw edges at the
back. Lay the prepared patches on a table and put them in place by
referring to the design, and then commence sewing the edges together
with an overcast stitch on the wrong side. When all are sewn, remove the
papers and flatten the seams with an iron. Any braid or stitch that may
be required to mask the join is next put on; this may be made ornamental
by interlacing knots at the corners, or by any other device that happens
to suit the work. The last thing to be done is to put a neat lining upon
the back to cover and protect the numerous raw edges.

[Illustration: Fig. 99.]

FOOTNOTE:

[4] For further information see "The Funeral Tent of an Egyptian Queen,"
by Villiers Stuart.

CHAPTER IX

METHODS OF WORK--(_continued_)

Quilting--Raised Work--Darning--Open Fillings--Darned Netting.

Quilting is a method of working by which three materials are fixed
together by more or less all-over stitching. It probably developed
through the necessity of keeping the three layers in place. For
practical purposes only, the sewing machine does the work excellently,
but by making the stitching follow out some prearranged design, it is
raised to the level of art. Plate III. is an interesting example showing
what can be done in the way of design with the stitching over the
surface. Embroidery may be added to the quilting, and this is often an
improvement. The Eastern nations carry out marvellously intricate
designs in quilting, and English XVIIIth century work of this kind shows
Eastern influence strongly. A good example of this is a very interesting
piece in the Victoria and Albert Museum.[5]

The first aim in quilting was evidently warmth, and the name denotes one
of the chief uses to which it is put. It is made use of also for
curtains, infants' caps or gloves (see fig. 100), all these things
requiring the three layers for warmth. The materials usually consist of
a surface one, which can be silk, fine linen or anything else; an
interlining of some softer material hav