g always approved of by the rest of the
dancers, a master of the ceremonies--called 'el bastonero'--is sometimes
appointed for the purpose of regulating the duration of the dances; but
as el bastonero is himself a dancer, he takes care to time the dances
according to his own requirements.

At an ordinary Philharmonic ball, such as that which I am describing,
the frequenters of the 'ambigu,' or refreshment room, must pay for what
they consume. This is a serious consideration with the pollo, for he is
expected to invite not only his partner, but also his partner's parents,
brothers, or chaperones, and sometimes a friend or two of the family!
The ambigu refreshment stall provides chiefly hams, lobsters, turkeys,
chickens, fried fish, escabeche (another variety of fish), tongue, and
other substantial viands; all of which are done full justice to by the
senorita's relatives and friends! The appetite of the young lady herself
is, however, more easily satisfied. A cup of thick chocolate with
'panatela' or pound cake, and an 'helado,' or ice is all that she
requires in the way of refreshment; unless, later in the evening, she
prefer a 'jigote,' which is a kind of thick soup made from boiled
chicken, minced fine, and flavoured with herbs.

Adjoining the ambigu is a small apartment, where gentlemen--and some of
the older ladies too--may enjoy a smoke while they sip their cafe and
cognac.

Of course Tunicu has a variety of partners, but Bimba being partial to
billiards, divides his time between the ballroom and the billiard-table.

Cachita--with whom I dance more than three times in the course of the
evening--makes a delightful partner, and when, after sundry experiments,
we are agreed upon the matter of step, I feel in the seventh heaven!

Cachita's manners and conversation are as agreeable as her dancing is,
and combine to impress me with the fancy that our acquaintance dates
from a more remote period than the present evening. Upon the strength of
my being an artist, she examines me on the subject of Cuban beauty, and
my replies are not unfavourable to Cachita and her countrywomen. In
turn, I interrogate her on the popular impression of foreigners, and
from her responses I gather that the people of nearly every country,
except Spain, hold a distinguished place in a Cuban's esteem. The palm
is, however, given to the Americans and English. Cachita has been early
taught to regard these nations with favour, and that to possess t