ical mocking-bird, the wild pigeon and
the humming-bird, in the midst of sweet-smelling odours, we lotus-eaters
encamp, affixing each a hammock between a couple of trunks of trees.
Here, we see nature under her brightest and sunniest aspect, and,
divesting our imagination of oil and canvas landscape, arrive at the
conclusion that trees and plants are very green indeed, and of an
endless variety of shade; that stones do not glitter, save where water
damps them; and that a Cuban sky is far bluer than the most expensive
ultramarine on a painter's palette.

CHAPTER XX.

COUNTRY LIFE AT A SUGAR ESTATE.

An Artist's Tent--Early Sport--An 'Ingenio'--Sugar and
Rum--Afternoon Sport--A Ride through the Country--Negro Dancing--An
Evening in the Country--'La Loteria.'

With my companion Nicasio Rodriguez y Boldu, behold me passing the
sultry months of August and September at the plantation of our worthy
friend Don Benigno, who, with his wife and family, have encamped for the
summer season at a farm-house on his sugar estate.

Our host's party is somewhat larger than usual, consisting of, besides
his wife and family, his eldest daughter's intended, Don Manuel, and
_his_ family. After our arrival, it is found that Don Benigno's premises
cannot accommodate us; we therefore obligingly seek a lodging elsewhere,
and as in the tropics any place of shelter serves for a habitation, we
do not greatly sacrifice our comfort.

Assisted by a stalwart negro, Nicasio and I improvise a lodging on the
banks of the river which flows near Don Benigno's country house. Our
rustic bower consists of a framework of roughly cut branches, and has an
outer covering formed of the dried papyrus-like bark of palms. The
interior is not spacious, but it meets all our requirements. In it we
can swing our hammocks at night, and assume a sitting posture without
inconvenience during the day. Our implements for sketching, together
with a couple of double-barrelled guns and some fishing-tackle,
distributed about the apartment, form agreeable objects for our gaze,
while, at the same time, they are within our easiest grasp. Plenty of
good fishing may be obtained in the deep, wide river which flows at our
feet, and our guns may be equally well employed with sport in the
opposite direction. As for our more peaceful instruments of art, there
is abundant scope for them on every side; and thus we can shoot, angle,
or sketch, as we may feel incline