the Saltiyeh people, during a former war, killed both the father and
grandfather of Deab, and sent the head of the former to the tribe in a
dish, with a pilaff of rice.

All the strength of the 'Adwan now lies in Shaikh Deab, with his son
'Ali, (who came to welcome us near the Jordan,) and Gublan the nephew.
Old 'Abdu'l 'Azeez is considered childish, and unfit to lead them.

For us travellers, however, the 'Adwan are sufficient. The territory is
theirs over which we are passing, and they do all they can to please us;
only, of course, like all Arab guides, they take every opportunity of
insinuating themselves into being fed by us, which is a condition "not in
the bond."

Then came a visit of three men with good-natured countenances. These
were Bedawi minstrels from Tadmor, (Palmyra,) who wander about from tribe
to tribe, singing heroic poems to the accompaniment of their rebabeh, (a
very primitive sort of fiddle.) No warfare interferes with the immunity
of their persons or property. They are never injured or insulted, but
are always and everywhere welcome, and liberally rewarded. Of course it
is for their interest to gratify the pride of their auditors by fervid
appeals to their ancestral renown, or to individual prowess and
generosity.

The Arabic of their chants is unintelligible to towns-people; it is the
high classic language of Antar.

I had made acquaintance with these same men before at Tibneen Castle,
near the Lebanon, during a season of Bairam. Being Sunday, we requested
them to visit our tents in the morning. Our Arabs, however, and the
dragomans kept them singing till a late hour round the fires lighted
among the tents. It was a cheerful scene, in the clear starlight, and
the lustrous planet Venus reflected in the running stream.

_Monday_, 14_th_.--After breakfast, and an entertainment of music from
our troubadours, and the bestowing of our guerdon, these left us on their
way to the other camp at Na'oor; and our packing up commenced.

Strange medley of costumes and languages among the grand colonnades. Our
Arabs left us, having the luggage in charge, and indicating to us the
camping-ground where we were to meet again at night--thus leaving us in
care of the Saltiyeh friends of ours, who were to escort us to their town
and its neighbourhood, as the 'Adwan might not go there themselves.

Both the Christian and Moslem shaikhs of the town came to meet us on the
way. The former was a very old ma