e work of time.

The natural agencies by which the edifices have come to ruin seem to
be--first, earthquakes; then the growth of weeds, thorns, and even trees,
between the courses of stone, after the population ceased; or rain and
snow detaching small pieces, which were followed by larger; also
sometimes a sinking of the ground; and besides these common causes of
decay, there comes the great destroyer--man.

Yet nature is always picturesque, even after the demolition of the works
of human art or genius; and it is pleasing to see the tendrils, leaves,
and scarlet berries of the nightshade playfully twining among the
sculptured friezes which are scattered about in every position but
straight lines; or other plants between the volutes, rivalling the
acanthus foliage of the classic capitals.

Sunset: a beautiful landscape all around; and a pretty view of the
travellers' tents, the Arabs, and the cattle below me.

After dinner I walked by starlight along the Ionic colonnade, which is a
further continuation northwards of the Corinthian, and found nearly the
whole length, with the intermediate pavement, remaining, consisting of
squares about two feet in length, laid down in diamond pattern.

At night there were flickering lights and varieties of human voices
below; the frogs croaking loud near the rivulet; and the rooks, whom I
had dislodged from their home within the Roman bath, had taken refuge on
the trees about us, unable to get to rest, being disturbed by our unusual
sights and sounds.

_Wednesday_, 16_th_.--A visitor came early--namely, Shaikh Yusuf--with
two of his people from _Soof_. The old man exhibited numerous
certificates given by former travellers--all English--whom he had
accompanied as guide either to Beisan or Damascus. He offered his
services to take us even, if we pleased, as far as Bozrah.

Then came Shaikh Barakat el Fraikh with a large train. He is ruler over
all the _Jebel 'Ajloon_, and has been residing lately on the summit of a
high hill rising before us to the east, where there is a weli or tomb of
a Moslem saint, the Nebi Hhood, who works miraculous cures. Barakat is
in delicate health, and has twenty wives. His metropolis, when he
condescends to live in a house, is at a village called _Cuf'r Enji_; but
his district comprises fifteen inhabited villages, with above three
hundred in ruins,--so it is said.

As for the saint himself, he has a very respectable name for antiquity,
too ancient