doubt but we should have seen also the village
of Zer'een (Jezreel) and the convent on Mount Carmel.

The weather was hot, and our people suffering from thirst, as Ramadan had
that day commenced.

Had a distant view of a Beni Sukh'r encampment to our right. After a
steep descent, and consequent rise again, we were upon a plain; and
therefore the guide counselled us to keep close together, as a precaution
against marauders. Our tedious deviation to-day had been far to the
east: we now turned westwards, as if marching right up to Tabor, over
corn-fields, with the village of _Tibni_ at our left, and _Dair_ at our
right hand.

Arrived at _Tayibeh_, and encamped there for the night. Among the first
people who came up to us was an Algerine Jew, who held my horse as I
dismounted. He was an itinerant working silversmith, gaining a
livelihood by going from Tiberias among Arab villages and the Bedaween,
repairing women's ornaments, etc.

There are plenty of wells about this place, but none with good water.
Wrangling and high words among the muleteers, and fighting of the animals
for approach to the water-troughs. The day had been very fatiguing; and
our Moslem attendants, as they had been involuntarily deprived of water
during this the first day of Ramadan, deemed it not worth while at that
hour to break the fast, as evening was rapidly coming on. Upon a
journey, if it be a real journey on business, they are allowed to break
the fast, on condition of making up for the number of days at some time
before the year expires.

Evening: beautiful colours on the western hills, and the new moon
appearing--a thin silver streak in the roseate glow which remains in the
heavens after sunset. The night very hot, and no air moving.

_Friday_, 18_th_.--After a night of mosquito-plague, we rose at the first
daybreak, with a glorious spectacle of Mount Hermon and its snowy summit
to the north. Such evenings and mornings as travellers and residents
enjoy in Asian climes are beyond all estimation, and can never be
forgotten.

We learned that there are Christians in this village of _Tayibeh_, as
indeed there are some thinly scattered throughout the villages of _Jebel
'Ajloon_, _i.e._ from Jerash to near Tiberias; and in the corresponding
villages on the western side of Jordan, as far as Nabloos.

I always feel deeply concerned for those "sheep without a shepherd,"
dispersed among an overwhelming population of Mohammedans. They are