shi Bozuk, to conduct me to the tents. The Aga was
dressed in a crimson silk long coat, over which was a scarlet jacket
embroidered in gold, and on his legs the Albanian full kilt, or
fustinella, of white calico; his saddle cloth was of pea-green silk with
a white border, and yellow worsted network protected the horse's belly
from flies, also a rich cloth with tassels lay over the horse's loins.

Proceeded southwards, and passed the broken bridge before mentioned.
Harvest everywhere in progress, and the produce being carried home on
asses to the village of _'Abadiyeh_, adjoining to the houses of which
were square and flat tents made of palm-leaf matting as residences of the
Ghawarineh Arabs.

Came to the ruins of a wretched little village called _Belhhamiyeh_,
formerly under the patronage of the 'Adwan; and thence appeared in full
view upon the hill above the great castle of the Crusaders called
Belvoir, but now named _Cocab_, or _Cocab el Hawa_. Upon the plain by
the river side was the encampment scattered about, and several European
tents among the others denoted the presence of Turkish soldiers.

We could see the Jis'r el Mejama'a, the bridge leading across to the land
of Gilead.

Rode up to 'Akeeli's tent, and found with him the formidable Shaikh Fendi
el Faiz of the Beni Sukh'r, and a musician with his rebabeh. A slave was
making coffee on a fire of dried camel's dung, although it was in the
fast of Ramadan. We conversed guardedly about Deab and the rest of the
'Adwan, and the camp at _Dahair el Hhumar_. 'Akeeli then had brought in
for his amusement a wild beast called a _fahh'd_, differing from a
panther in being larger and in having black stripes down the face; it
seemed wild enough, but was confined by a rope, the pulling of which, and
alternately patting the creature was the amusement or occupation of the
Aga. They brought me some coffee and water to drink, whereupon 'Akeeli
called for some too, and said to me--"These fools of Mohammedans are
keeping Ramadan, but I am a Frenchman," he then drank off the water.
This man, whom Lynch, the American commander, styles a "magnificent
savage," was savage enough in manners, and dirty, and half-naked. He has
since, however, made his influence felt, and may perhaps do so again.

Altogether, my reception was not one in accordance with my notions of
Arab hospitality. Perhaps he did not wish me to espy what was going on
about him in company with Shaikh Fendi el F