with rubbish, and remains of quarrying work in the solid rock,--besides
an unroofed building, with a semicircular arch to the doorway. Surely
this must have been of Roman construction.

Arrived at _Mejdal Yaba_ in nine hours from Sanoor,--a hot and tiring
journey. At a short distance below us was the site of _Ras el 'Ain_; and
farther westwards, but within sight, the tall white tower of _Ramlah_.
Time--sunset.

I had a special object in coming off the common high-roads to this place,
but little known, at that time not at all known, to Europeans,--namely,
to visit Shaikh Sadek, the responsible ruler of the district, and
regarded by the peasantry with especial deference, out of traditional
obedience to his ancient family.

We found the village and the castle in a very dilapidated condition, and
the great shaikh not at home. Some of his relatives, however, received
us; but both they and the peasantry were surprised, if not alarmed, at
our coming. To them it seemed as if we were suddenly dropped upon them
from the sky. Perhaps they had never seen Europeans before; or they
might have thought us spies sent by the Turkish Government. There were
plenty of idle fellows lounging about; but their supplies of food from
the village were scanty, and of inferior quality.

The Sadek family apologised for apparent want of hospitality,--explaining
that the only unbroken part of the castle was but just sufficient to
contain the _hareem_ of the women, and there was not a single room to
give me. So I was glad to have my bedding and other paraphernalia spread
upon a _mustabah_, or raised stone divan, just within the gate. A narrow
vaulting covered my head; but it was open at the side to the square
court, into which the horses, asses, cows, and sheep were driven for the
night.

After considerable delay, a rude supper was produced,--of which, however,
I could not persuade the family to partake till after ourselves. They
then ate up the remainder in company with my servants. They were very
solemn and slow in conversation; indeed, I could not but suspect that
they had some hostile schemes in preparation, which they did not wish to
have ascertained or communicated to their neighbours.

Troubling myself very little about their local politics, I was soon on my
bed, and looking up at the brilliant stars. Sleep did not come very
soon, as the men kept up firing guns, and the women trilling their songs,
to a late hour. They said it