, _November_ 2.--We returned towards Safed over the plain of
_Alma_. The wheat of this district is renowned far and wide for quality
and quantity of produce. The guide told us that at this place were
splendid remains of antiquity; but, on arriving, we could hear of nothing
but a poor cistern within a cavern. Here the black basalt recommences
after the region of white limestone where we had been; and then again, at
the distance of a good-sized field, we were upon common brown
agricultural soil. It is curious how sharply these division-lines of
soil are drawn in every direction about this place. {114}

Thence we diverged off from yesterday's road to visit _Jish_, passing
through Ras el Ahhmar. Most magnificent views of Hermon and
Anti-Lebanon.

Had to go down into a valley, through which, on a former journey, we had
passed on coming from _Bint Jebail_, and visited again the ancient
monument in a vineyard by the roadside. It appears to have consisted of
one small building. The lower parts of two upright posts of its doorway
remain, together with a fragment of the transverse lintel: several pieces
of columns are lying about, and pediments of these _in situ_. Besides
these, there is the following fragment of sculpture

[Picture: Ancient sepulchre near Jish]

nearly level with the ground, and is probably the entrance of a
sepulchre, but we had no opportunity of clearing away the soil to
ascertain that. The ornamentation seems to be that of laurel leaves.
Near adjoining is a fragment of a round pillar, partly buried; but on
seeing Hebrew writing upon it, I cleared it away partly. Some of it was
but indistinct. I could only read it thus--

[Picture: Hebrew writing]

--from which not much signification can be gathered. Perhaps some cracks
in the stone have disfigured the characters; but how and when did a
Hebrew inscription come in such a place? The site is very agreeable,
with streamlets of water tinkling among trees by the roadside.

Thence we mounted up to the village of _Jish_, the place of _John of
Giscala_, the antagonist of Josephus. This seems to have been the
centre-point of the dreadful earthquake in 1837, from which Safed and
Tiberias suffered so much. It occurred on the New Year's day, while the
people of the village were all in church; and just as the priest held the
sacramental cup in his hand, the whole village was in a moment destroyed,
not one soul