f their idolatry. In later times it was a station
of the golden calf of Jeroboam's institution, that is to say, the revived
emblem of Baal, going back to the practice of the Leshemites; and there
is yet an idea prevailing in our days that the Druses of the
neighbourhood retain that emblem or idol among them--a remarkable
instance of the perpetuity of idolatry, and one form of idolatry under
different names, modified only by circumstances in the same locality. I
forbear to pursue further the reflections that can be evolved at large
from that idea, as they might bring us into other countries than Syria or
Palestine.
Riding our horses up the full stream for a short distance, we forded it,
and entered into the shade upon the hill, where we reposed under a large
evergreen oak, decorated with rags as votive offerings to an Arab shaikh
buried beside it. Near this tree is an extraordinary jungle of brambles
and gigantic flowering shrubs, through which it seemed impossible to
penetrate, but out of which tangled mass the copious stream issues, as
also a minor current, which after some deflection meets the other, and
forms one stream on leaving the hill, and this, when joined by the waters
of Banias, to which we were now going, combines into one river, Jordan,
then enters and passes through the Lake Hhooleh. For the present I omit
the consideration of the Hhasbani and its spring, which not only helps to
form the Jordan, but actually commences further beyond the springs of Dan
and Banias.
It wanted about an hour to sunset when we turned in eastwards, round the
foot of old Hermon, for _Banias_, the Caesarea Philippi of the New
Testament, whose hill and ancient castle appeared not far distant.
We observed numerous small runlets of water flowing from the north and
east towards the Tell el Kadi, one especially of nearly four feet wide.
Yet with all these blessings the district is mostly neglected, and
abandoned to a sparse population of wretched Ghawarineh Arabs and their
buffaloes.
We passed through neb'k trees and stunted oaks, some karoobah trees and
sumach about twenty feet high, with their red berries, besides myrtles
almost as lofty. Signs of the existence of inhabitants appeared in
patches of cultivation and an occasional flock of goats. Trees became
closer together than at first, and at length Banias stood in face of us,
touching the foot of Hermon, which formed a magnificent background of
receding heights, but it
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