sands which occupy part of the Ghuwair, probably the effect of a
salty deposit.

About noon we arrived at a clear, running stream of water, but which
proved, on tasting, to be highly impregnated with salt. The surface of
the plain was in a great measure covered with a white efflorescence.
Along the middle of this plain there was a sunken channel of a mile and a
half in length, occupied by an overflowing of the Dead Sea, which,
however, did not interfere with our track.

At the end of this, and on approaching the corner of the salt mountain,
we had an _incident_ to enliven the tediousness of the hot journey. A
party of Arabs came in sight. Our men discovered them first, and running
forwards, primed their guns, or lighted the match of the lock, drew their
swords and screamed, making bare the right arm, as if prepared for awful
deeds. The others took up position behind low rocks, unslung their
fire-arms, and screamed _not_. Presently a real or fictitious
recognition took place, the guns on both sides were fired up in the air,
and swords were brandished for very joy. Both parties rushed into each
other's embraces, smiling and kissing with the greatest fervour.

The comers proved to be some of their own Jehaleen, escorting some Hebron
townsmen to Kerak. There were two women among the latter, some old men,
and some conjurers with monkeys, who thereupon set up a dance to the
music of tambourines. Upon something like equanimity being restored, the
strangers informed us of certain doings that had taken place, on our
account, since we had passed by there, and which nearly concerned us.

The two parties soon separated, taking opposite directions.

As we were close upon the western side, there was the southern end of the
Dead Sea at our right hand, coming up imperceptibly upon the land, flush
with it, so that no limit could be distinguished between water and the
wet beach.

At a few minutes past one we all alighted before the large cavern which
runs into the heart of the salt mountain; and a picturesque group our
party formed, spread about in some shade of the hill, with a great
variety of costumes and colours--the camels kneeling and the horses
picketed upon the bay of the sea of Sodom and Gomorrah.

Entering the cavern, we found relics of the recent French expedition
thither, under M. de Saulcy, such as egg-shells and torn paper coverings
of candles, with French shopkeepers' names upon them. We did not
penetrate f