Gimzo at the mouth of the Bethhoron Pass, (2 Chron. xxviii.
18,) and Ras-el-Ain still beyond, with its fountains and rich lands
conspicuous on the Great Plain, backed by the hills of Ephraim. Then we
passed the poor clay-built village of _Deaneh_, where the people were
winnowing a large harvest of millet, and the Government tax-farmers with
their soldiers, lent by the authorities, measuring the heaps.

Lastly, we entered the vast olive grounds belonging to Ramlah, and found
our tents (which had been sent on by another road) just as the Moeddin in
the minaret was calling to sunset prayers.

I am never weary of the scenery about Ramlah; we have there the most
picturesque Orientalism of all Palestine--a warm climate, numerous waving
palm-trees, with the large reservoir for cattle drinking, all gilded in
brilliant sunlight, together with the busy voices of a considerable
population.

A burly fellow of a wandering durweesh or sorcerer, with rows of large
black beads round his neck, came up to us, and bellowed out one of the
ninety-nine attributes of God, according to the Moslems: "Ya Daeem," (O
thou everlasting!) This was by way of asking alms. My companion gave
him some, which I would not have done.

In the morning we ascended to the top of the great White Tower, called
"the Tower of the Forty," meaning forty martyrs. This is a favourite
appellation of ancient ruins in Palestine. I do not know what it alludes
to. And from among the Comandalune windows I copied the following
vignette.

[Picture: Window of the White Tower]

V. THE LAND OF BENJAMIN.

Who has ever stood upon the Scopus hill, north of Jerusalem, (his mind
first prepared by biblical reading and biblical feeling,) facing
northwards, and seeing at one glance, as upon a map, the land of the
tribe of Benjamin, without desiring to wander about there, were it only
to experience the reality of standing and breathing upon the sites of
'Anathoth, Michmash, Gibea of Saul, and Gibeon? It can be most of it
performed in one day, and sometimes a line through it is traversed in
that time by English residents of Jerusalem, namely, from Jerusalem to
Michmash and Bethel, and the return.

There is also a pleasant spot above Lifta, in a grove of olives, figs,
and pomegranates, where Europeans have sometimes established summer camps
for their families. At that spot it is delightful to repose in the
evening shadows cast by the trees, and ga