village of _Baka_, and thus we missed
the ruined town before noticed, but got into the same valley of _'Arah_;
and in the great heat of summer, confined between the two ridges of
hills, we crept on to the extremity of the valley, and mounted a hill to
the village of _Mushmusheh_, opposite to _Umm el Fahh'm_. All the
villages in that region are situated on hills, and are of no easy access.

This place enjoys abundance of water springing out of the ground, and at
any risk so precious a treasure ought not to be lost; therefore, although
the houses were abandoned and the people scattered, they come there
stealthily, and as opportunity arises, to do the little service to the
ground that it required, and watch its oranges, lemons, and pomegranates,
(from the name it would seem that formerly this place was famous for
apricots.) As we halted and pitched tents there, one by one some of the
people came about us, although they had been preparing to leave for the
night, in order to sleep at "Charcoal's Mother," (the village opposite.)
They stayed under our protection, and got for us certain supplies from
over the way.

Close beside us was a gigantic mulberry tree, around which two very large
vines climbed to a great height, and a channel of running water almost
surrounded the roots.

I never heard such sweet-toned bells as the flocks about there carried,
and which gave out their music near and far at every movement of the
goats and sheep.

In the morning we left this very pleasant spot and went on to _Lejjoon_;
crossed the Sufsafeh and the other streams with their oleander borders,
and enjoyed the magnificent prospects of Hermon, Tabor, and the plain;
rested on the hill of _Kaimoon_ under the fine oak-tree of former
acquaintance, and at length arrived in Caiffa.

IV. FROM CARMEL SOUTH-EASTWARDS.

_April_ 1859.

The usual way by _'Ain Sa'adeh_, _Beled esh Shaikh_ and _Yajoor_; the
woody sides of Carmel diversified in colour at this season of spring;
there was the dark green of the bellota oak, the yellow of the abundant
broom, the dark red-brown of the sprouting terebinth and the pale green
of young-leafed trees of many other kinds. There was, moreover, the
fragrance of an occasional pine, and of the hawthorn, (Za'aroor,) which
is of stronger scent than in England; and the ground was sprinkled with
purple and yellow crocuses; also with anemones of every