rs; some of the evergreens were named to
us as Maloch, etc., and there were bushes of Saris with red berries.

Out of this we emerged upon the plain of the sea-coast, at a wretched
village bearing the attractive name of _Furadees_ (Paradise.) Here the
people were sifting their corn after its thrashing, and we got a boy to
refresh us with milk from his flock of goats. Only those experiencing
similar circumstances of hot travelling, can conceive the pleasure of
this draught, especially after having had to gallop round the boy, and
coax and threaten him to sell the milk for our money.

The way lay due north, hugging to the hills parallel to the sea, but at a
distance from it: numerous wadis run inland, and at the mouth of each is
a village. The first was _Suameh_, the next _'Ain el Ghazal_, (Gazelles
fountain,) wretched like the rest, but in a pretty situation--then
_Modzha_, and _Mazaal_, and _'Ain Hhood_, (a prosperous looking place,)
and _Teeri_.

The sun set in the blue water, and we were still far from Carmel--our
animals could scarcely move: sometimes we dismounted and led them--passed
the notable ruins of Tantoorah, (Dora of the Bible,) and Athleet on our
left--moonlight and fatigue. There was a nearer way from Zumareen, but
it would have been hilly and wearisome. After a long while we overtook
our muleteers without the baggage, for the Kawwas Salim, they said, had
been so cruel to them that they had allowed him to go on with the charge
towards Carmel.

At length we climbed up the steep to the convent. Being very late we
experienced great difficulty in gaining admission. There was no food
allowed to the servants, no barley for the horses, and for a long time no
water supplied.

In the morning we found great changes had taken place since 1846. The
kind president had gone on to India--the apothecary Fra Angelo was
removed to a distance--John-Baptist was at Caiffa and unwell. The whole
place bore the appearance of gloom, bigotry, dirtiness, and bad
management.

In the afternoon I left the convent, in order to enjoy a perfect Sabbath
on the morrow in tents at the foot of the hill, open to the sea breeze of
the north, and with a grand panorama stretched out before us.

And a blessed day that was. We were all in need of bodily rest,
ourselves, the servants and the cattle--and it was enjoyed to the
full--my young friend and I derived blessing and refreshment also from
the word of God. The words, "Come un