hat is, from Naphtali downwards into
Zebulon, we crossed westwards the _Jebel Rama_, a long hilly range ending
in the south at Rama, and richly wooded, but to our surprise there were
numerous fires left by the people to consume trees and large shrubs at
discretion, for the making of charcoal. Fortunately for us there was no
wind blowing, but several times as the fiery ashes had been drifted upon
the road, our horses had no choice but to step into them. On that
eminence I picked up specimens of Geodes which abound there, being lumps
resembling fruits outside, but when broken found to be a crust of bright
spar, and hollow in the centre; some of these were remarkably large. The
hills were fragrant with wild herbs, and the views from them delightful.

After _Semwan_ we strayed from the right road and got to _Shemuata_,
where we procured a guide to conduct us in the direction of Carmel; he
undertook to conduct us as far as _Abu 'Atabeh_, from which Carmel would
be visible, and the distance equal either to Acre or to Caiffa. From the
heights we descended to _Ekwikat_, and there found ourselves too tired to
get further that night.

In the morning we passed the _Bahhjah_, which had been the luxurious
summer residence of Abdallah Pasha, but was in a ruinous condition, and
came to _Abu 'Atabeh_, which is not a village but a collection of a few
houses, perhaps formerly some outlying dwellings belonging to the
Bahhjah. Here was a fountain, and a small aqueduct for conveying water
to gardens.

Crossed the _Naaman_ river, anciently named the _Belus_, on the banks of
which, according to Pliny, the primitive idea of glass-making was
discovered by accident. Along the beach we came to the Mokatta' or
Kishon, found it deep for fording, but got over to Caiffa, and mounted to
the Convent of Carmel.

2. NAZARETH TOWARDS ACRE.

_Oct._ 1849.

Passing _Sefoorieh_, (the Sepphoris so often mentioned in Josephus) with
a distant view of Carmel on the left, like a huge rampart of dark blue,
we came to the ruined Khan with a fountain called the _'Ain el
Bedaweeyeh_, then through delightful wooded glades, on issuing from which
we saw _Shefa 'Amer_, a handsome-looking place, with which I made better
acquaintance in after years.

On the plain of Acre I picked up a cannon ball, probably a twelve
pounder.

(This journey was repeated in March 1852, and in March 1859.)