e local government, and
where the governor is a distant relative of him at Tibneen.

From the tents, before starting, we could see the following villages in a
curved line from S.E. to N:--

Haddata or Haita ez-Zoot.
Bait U'oon.
Berasheet.
Hhooleh.
Shakrah.

And they told us of _El Yehudiyeh_ on the N.W. behind the castle. The
Mediterranean in sight [I became better acquainted with Tibneen, and on
better relations with the people in after years.]

Passed on through a pretty country, like all the Belad Besharah, with
numerous villages in sight; excellent beaten roads, and plenty of them;
with everywhere the magnificent objects in view of Mount Hermon, and part
of the Lebanon, but not always the Mediterranean.

Rested at half-way of our short journey under a large evergreen oak on
the summit of a rising ground, with a refreshing breeze blowing; thence
descended to a plain where there were about a dozen wells, and people
drawing water for large herds of neat cattle. Here our horses got drink.

Arrived at _Bint el Jebail_, a nice-looking place, with a commanding
house for the governor, (Hhusain Suliman,) but the people were at first
even more inhospitable than those at Tibneen, for they drove away our man
Khaleel from the village fountain, and covered up their mouths and noses,
in fear of cholera.

On application to the Bek, we got permission to draw water for ourselves,
and he allowed us eggs and bread, with barley for the horses, and it was
with difficulty they accepted any money in return.

The Bek also invited me to visit him in his house, but stipulating not to
shake hands.

On coming near the Serai, (governor's house,) the ladies of the Hhareem
were looking out of the lattices upon the cavalcade. A crowd of servants
were at the door to receive us, in attendance on one of his sons, who had
a large hunting-hawk upon his wrist; silver bells upon her legs.

We were shown into a large baronial-looking hall, and chairs were placed
for us upon the divan.

The great man sat in the right-hand corner, upon a panther skin, one of
the prey of the country, his brother at his right hand, and his sons
ranged on his left. He wore a robe of the true Moslem apple-green, with
a Cashmere shawl round his waist, and another on his turban. His
countenance and deportment were truly aristocratic; he and all his family
were handsome, with intelligent expression of countenance.

The son who had been outs