a fine view of the
sea, and the oak and karoobah trees were larger as we advanced; from
certain stations we obtained a totally unexpected prospect of a stretch
of large forest scenery below us, extending towards _Sindianeh_ in the
west.

At one spot we passed among scattered stones of excellent masonry, large
and rabbeted at the edges, lying confusedly about, enough for a small
town, but evidently belonging to a period of ancient date; a few mud huts
were adjoining these.

Thence we descended into a long valley, several miles in extent, called
_Wadi 'Arah_, fully occupied with cotton crops, and stubble of the last
harvest of grain. The valley was bounded on either side by well timbered
hills, and its direction was N.E. by E.

After an hour in this long enclosure, the pleasing features of the scene
became less defined in character, and, uncertain of our way, we climbed
up to a village called _'Ararah_, where, after an hour's trouble, we got
a guide at high price for the rest of the day's journey. The evening was
then advancing, and the gnats from the trees and shrubs plagued the
horses. Among these trees were grand old oaks of a kind that bear
gigantic acorns with mossy cups. At length the verdure ceased, and we
had only stony hills. There was, however, a weli with a spring of water,
and fruit trees by the roadside, crowded with a shoal of singing birds
all rustling and chirping at once among the boughs as the sun was
setting, and throwing a glorious red over the clouds which had been
gradually collecting during the afternoon.

We left the village of _Umm el Fahh'm_, ("Mother of Charcoal"--a name
significant of a woodland district) upon the right, and night closed in;
our old guide on his little donkey singing cheerily in front, till
darkness reduced us all to silence.

We crossed the small rivulet at _Lejjoon_ by starlight; and the rest of
the journey in the night was not only monotonous, but even dangerous,
over marshes and chinks in the Plain of Esdraelon. Our course was in a
direction N.E. to Nazareth, which we reached in sixteen hours from the
morning's starting at _Cuf'r Saba_.

There were fortunately no roaming Arabs to molest us in this night
passage across the _Merj ibn 'Amer_.

2. PLAIN OF SHARON TO CAIFFA.

_June_ 1859.

As before, we left the northern extremity of the plain of Sharon, but
this time at the eastern and minor