d, save when a line of jinrikishas of
heavily freighted coolies appear, and then with perfect good nature the
right of way is given. No menace, no insults are heard. The perennial
smile of women and the submission of the men is enough to conquer all
antagonism to foreigners, if any exists. Nevertheless, a guide is
indispensable to protect against intrusive curiosity, for wherever you
stop, there the gaping crowd surrounds you.

The shopping fever seems to manifest itself almost immediately on
arrival at Yokohama; in fact, I heard of no epidemic so fatal to
visitors. Your guide, who has an eye to the commission he will receive
on all your purchases, gives you his advice as to where you shall
buy--to his best advantage. As truthfulness is not a Japanese virtue, it
is well to consult your fellow traveler and to use your own judgment as
to quality. Each city of Japan seems to have its specialty; for
instance: We found the handsomest kimonas, the finest cloisonais in
Yokohama: the best carving in ivory in Tokio.

As for a gentleman's outfit it would be advisable to go to Yokohama with
an empty trunk, for good materials and perfect fit are guaranteed for
marvelously low prices. There your duck suits, Pongees and silk
underwear for the tropics are laid in with great satisfaction. The
adaptation in imitation is most striking. A waist of a dress given the
tailor will be so closely copied in fit and style and delivered in so
brief a space of time that it makes you fairly sigh when you think of
the waste of time and mistakes that our own modistes often subject us
to, but there is no originality displayed by the Japanese.

The native woman is always clothed; the unmarried, known by the style of
hair dressing, are neat and gayly attired in their kimonas and bright
sashes, are attractive, but the absolute negligence of the mothers is
revolting. The hair if not in strings, is most loosely bound up; no more
pomade and bows; their teeth blackened, and their bosoms so exposed that
their elongated condition becomes revolting. We were told that supply of
the human dairy never ceases while the demand exists. No sooner does one
child let go, than another takes hold--hence the accessibility.

To visit the temples is of daily occurrence. There, hundreds of natives
are huddled together, prostrating themselves before the tinselled
altars, leaving behind them in the space they have occupied a coin, of
but little value, it may be, but something