sferred in my absence to a more
sombre looking chamber, but on my appeal to Brahma, my servant, who lay
at my door, he assured me that it was innumerable shad flies (as we
would call them) which had been caught by the glare and had lined walls
and ceilings and covered my bed spread. Dust pans and brushes were in
requisition, counterpane shaken, and lace mosquito netting drawn down
and tucked in before I felt like retiring for the night. To attempt to
read by an overhanging light was simply impossible, for the print of
paper or book would be completely obscured by these pestiferous
creatures, and when we sought an outside veranda that we might, in the
darkness, at least, carry on a conversation, they would fly down one's
throat, when we opened our mouths. Imagine what a sacrifice this was to
be compelled to be dumb, when we had so much to say.

In traveling through India a body servant is indispensable. He lies at
the door of your sleeping apartment, waits upon you at the table, buys
your ticket, cares for your baggage and divers other attentions are
rendered by the patient but most indolent Mohammedan. We are advised not
to employ a Hindoo servant, as they refuse to serve flesh or fowl to you
at the table; according to their religious belief, it would be
pollution.

At 9:15 p. m., Nov. 18, 1895, we find ourselves in a most comfortable
compartment car, with shower bath and other conveniences. Alongside, but
not connected in a way that we could speak to them only by calling from
the car window or door, was the apartment designated for servants. They
lie down at night on the floor with an extra cotton wrap, which is used
for the purpose, and I fancy they use their turban for their pillow. To
our party of four we were entitled to an entire compartment, and no
intrusion can be made en route, on our privacy. On either side of the
car are long, cushioned seats, well upholstered and covered with dark
green leather; over these are suspended corresponding ones which, if not
in use, are thrown to the ceiling, where they are made secure. At the
one end is a shorter seat (width of the car) and at the opposite side a
door leads into a toilet room. The traveler provides his own bedding,
which consists of pillows or cushions, and steamer blankets or shawls.
The nights are cold, but the heat through the day, were we not in
motion, would be insupportable, together with the dust that arises along
the road, for lack of rain, adds nothing