them (the natives) from the dews of the
night. The palace of the viceroy, centrally located, is surrounded by
beautiful grounds, with magnificent shade trees. It is built upon the
grand esplanade, three miles in length, and skirts the water's edge.
From the hours of 5:00 till 8:00 p. m. this grand avenue presents a
lively appearance, for all the elite of Calcutta seems gathered there.
Handsome victorias drawn by beautiful horses, coachmen and footmen, with
their bright turbans and oriental dress, lends enchantment to the view
and reminded one of the display Aladdin made when he went to claim his
bride. In the Garden of Eden, near by, a band of forty native musicians,
well trained, discourse sweet music--the latest European airs. During
the performances all vehicles must remain in one position, thus
affording the scores of flower venders opportunity to move noiselessly
roundabout the carriages, offering the beautiful orchids, camellias and
roses, for a small pittance, to the occupants. To say nothing of toy
monkeys, which one cannot resist buying. The European residence quarters
lie along this beautiful, sun-baked road. The houses are large and well
built, with the luxuriant surroundings of tropical growth that almost
hide the homes from view. On every veranda is the tea table, with its
urn or samovar; all English observe the hour of 4:00 o'clock to serve
the necessary stimulant at home and abroad. The city is supplied with
water from the Hoogly River, gathered into large reservoirs, and
filtered. The Esplanade is sprinkled by the native coolie, who, from his
well-filled goatskin, moves gracefully in a surpentine fashion over its
well rolled surface; while the streets in the business portion are
watered from carts managed by women. A visit to the crematory at the
early dawn--the hour set apart for burning their dead--is interesting,
but horrible, to witness. A building of 100 feet is located upon the
bank of the river. At intervals of ten feet on its earthen floor are
trenches, dug the length of a body; they do not exceed two feet in
depth, if that. In this excavation is placed some clean straw and sandal
wood with myrrh and sweet perfumes. Upon this is laid, first crosswise
and then lengthwise, sticks of cordwood, and a fresh bed of straw, upon
which the body is laid. The body of an aged woman was brought in for
cremation while we stood there. It was wrapped in white cheese cloth and
rested on the bed upon which she died