r. Our address is taken when we decline
to purchase, which means that we will be followed to the hotel by a
native who will there unfold the wonders of India's product again to
us--specimens even more tempting than those shown in the shops. Our lack
of confidence in ourselves as experts and a growing distrust of the
dealer makes a breach between buyer and seller. In these places where
gems are kept the stock ofttimes seems meager, and we manifest our
disappointment, but are at once assured that their supply is large, but
at the present time the rarest and most costly have been sent to some
Maha Rajah who makes regal purchases, and those he declines, perhaps
from his sufficiency, are returned for sale to those whose love for gems
is weighed in a balance with their purse.

An English lady artist who was solicited to paint the portrait of one of
these Rajahs in his own palace, and to abide in the premises during her
time of labor, told me her powers of description failed her in the
attempt to portray to others what the coffers of these rulers of
provinces contained, and with which they adorned themselves on state
occasions, and to convey to canvas their beauties, would have been the
work of the Hand that created them.

Calcutta, city of palaces, has a number of theaters, one of which we
attended. The evening was warm; the audience quite large. In the gallery
sat parties in groups; over each stood stalwart coolies, in whose hands
were held a long-handled palm-leaf fan. Not for one moment did they
falter, but with an unerring movement, gracefully and uninterruptedly
handled this cumbersome article, which must have had a soothing effect.
The play was not well supported; now and then was pleasure or
displeasure manifested by the audience in a loud voice speaking, we were
told, direct to the actors. After the play was over (by the way, it was
long drawn out) the foyer rapidly filled and great hilarity prevailed.
Full dress, now in evidence among the ladies, and gentlemen with their
tall silk hats and boutonierres looked most like English swells, while
those in Oriental dress were not eclipsed in brilliant coloring.

The insect life in Calcutta was most annoying. Before going to the
theatre I had left a small flicker from the gas jet in my room and the
windows open. What was my dismay on returning to find the originally
whitewashed walls of my apartment of a dull grey appearance. I doubted
if my steamer trunk had not been tran