and
the Yang-tse-kiang (Broad River) combined. The former river often bursts
its confines, causing great destruction to life and property. The mouth
of the Yang-tse-kiang to-day is far removed from where it was many years
ago. The Hoang-Ho is for the greater part of the year unnavigable, owing
to floods during the summer months, the disasters being so great it is
sometimes called the "Chinese sorrow." Fish abound and is the flesh food
of the average Chinaman, although pork is his delight. The mode of
fishing is varied; often men and boys dive for them, but the more
entertaining method is by the cormorant. A dozen or more of these
trained birds are perched on a bamboo pole across the bow of a boat, but
before diving, a cord is placed around their throat to prevent them
from swallowing their prey, and they rarely fail to bring up one or
more fish. Their eagerness for success is most noticeable, and they are
rewarded after having satisfied their owner, by being given some of the
small fry. Our steamer anchored fifteen miles off of Shanghai, and our
heavily freighted tender was two hours reaching land. The harbor was
filled with bright colored sailing vessels, junks and sampans,
stern-wheel kickaway and chop boats; also the bateaux of the "Tanka"
girls who work the ferries. The form of the natural eye painted on these
vessels is most apparent; the reason for so doing is, the Chinese will
reply, "No eye, no see."

We at once contrast the well-built and improved bund which skirts the
water's edge with the less pretentious Japanese ports. It is not until
we enter the Chinese quarters, with its low dwellings and apparent
squalor, that we realize what the English concessions are to the
traveler. The dress of the Chinese is refreshing to the eye after our
sojourn in Japan, where among the coolies little was left to the
imagination.

The drive to the "Bubbling-Well," a square enclosure of stone some eight
feet in dimension, reveals a spring of water whose surface was green
with slime, from which issued two clear streams of pure crystal fluid.
Well-dressed, painted Chinese women, guarded by eunuchs, drive in
landaus along this fashionable drive, which leads to club houses and
well laid out grounds. The tiny feet of the women as they peep out from
under the richly embroidered gowns assured us that navigation to them on
foot was almost impossible. This process of deformity is begun about the
sixth year of their lives and rarely fu