onger than patriotism, and I see no signs of the emigration
decreasing for some years to come.

After waiting a considerable time, we obtained two horses and a
strapping farmer's son for guide. The fellow was delighted to find out
where we came from, and was continually shouting to the people in the
fields: "Here these are Americans: they were born there!" whereat the
people stared, saluted, and then stared again. He shouldered our packs
and marched beside the horses with the greatest ease. "You are strong,"
I remarked. "Yes," he replied, "I am a strong Normand," making his
patriotism an excuse for his personal pride. We had a terribly tough
pull up the mountain, through fine woods, to the summit level of the
fjeld. The view backwards, over the lake, was enchanting, and we
lingered long on the steep, loth to lose it. Turning again, a desolate
lake lay before us, heathery swells of the bleak table-land and distant
peaks, touched with snow. Once upon the broad, level summit of a
Norwegian fjeld, one would never guess what lovely valleys lie under
those misty breaks which separate its immense lobes--what gashes of life
and beauty penetrate its stony heart. There are, in fact, two Norways:
one above--a series of detached, irregular masses, bleak, snowy,
wind-swept and heather-grown, inhabited by herdsmen and hunters: and one
below--a ramification of narrow veins of land and water, with fields and
forests, highways and villages.

So, when we had traversed the upper land for several miles, we came to a
brink overlooking another branch of the lower land, and descended
through thick woods to the farms of Ulvik, on the Eyfjord, an arm of the
Hardanger. The shores were gloriously beautiful; slopes of dazzling turf
inclosed the bright blue water, and clumps of oak, ash, and linden, in
park-like groups, studded the fields. Low red farmhouses, each with its
hollow square of stables and granaries, dotted the hill-sides, and the
people, male and female, were everywhere out reaping the ripe barley and
piling it, pillar-wise, upon tall stakes. Owing to this circumstance we
were obliged to wait some time for oarsmen. There was no milk to be had,
nor indeed anything to eat, notwithstanding the signs of plenty on all
sides. My friend, wandering from house to house, at last discovered an
old man, who brought him a bowl of mead in exchange for a cigar. Late
in the afternoon two men came, put us into a shabby and leaky boat, and
pulled away