and when our postillions stopped at the door of a
prosperous-looking establishment, we congratulated ourselves on our
luck. But (--) never whistle until you are out of the woods. The people
seemed decidedly not to like the idea of our remaining, but promised to
give us supper and beds. They were stupid, but not unfriendly; and our
causes of dissatisfaction were, first, that they were so outrageously
filthy, and secondly, that they lived so miserably when their means
evidently allowed them to do better. The family room, with its two
cumbrous bedsteads built against the wall, and indescribably dirty beds,
was given up to us, the family betaking themselves to the stable. As
they issued thence in the morning, in single garments, we were
involuntary observers of their degree of bodily neatness; and the
impression was one we would willingly forget. Yet a great painted desk
in the room contained, amid many flourishes, the names and character of
the host and hostess, as follows:--"Andres Svennogsen Bamble, and Ragnil
Thorkilsdatter Bamble, Which These Two Are Respectable People." Over the
cupboard, studded with earthen-ware dishes, was an inscription in
misspelt Latin: "Solli Deo Glorria." Our supper consisted of boiled
potatoes and fried salt pork, which, having seen the respectable hosts,
it required considerable courage to eat, although we had not seen the
cooking. Fleas darkened the floor; and they, with the fear of something
worse, prevented us from sleeping much. We did not ask for coffee in the
morning, but, as soon as we could procure horses, drove away hungry and
disgusted from Bamble-Kaasa and its respectable inhabitants.

The church of Hitterdal, larger than that of Borgund, dates from about
the same period, probably the twelfth century. Its style is similar,
although it has not the same horned ornaments upon the roof, and the
Byzantine features being simpler, produce a more harmonious effect. It
is a charmingly quaint and picturesque building, and the people of the
valley are justly proud of it. The interior has been renovated, not in
the best style.

Well, to make this very long chapter short, we passed the beautiful
falls of the Tind Elv, drove for more than twenty miles over wild piny
hills, and then descended to Kongsberg, where Fru Hansen comforted us
with a good dinner. The next day we breakfasted in Drammen, and, in
baking heat and stifling dust, traversed the civilised country between
that city and Christia