s came, and we were ushered into a very pleasant room, with two
beds, and furnished with a supper of fresh meat, potatoes, and mead. The
landlord and two or three of the neighbours sat with us before the fire
until we were too sleepy to answer any more questions. A more naturally
independent and manly bearing I have never seen than that of our host.
He was a tall, powerful man, of middle age, with very handsome features,
which were softened but not weakened in expression by his long blond
hair, parted on his forehead. He had the proper pride which belongs to
the consciousness of worth, and has no kinship with empty vanity. "We
have come to Dalecarlia to see the descendants of the people who gave
Gustavus Vasa his throne," said I, curious to see whether he would
betray any signs of flattered pride. His blue eye flashed a little, as
he sat with his hands clasped over one knee, gazing at the fire, a light
flush ran over his temples--but he said nothing. Some time ago a
proposition was made to place a portrait of Gustavus Vasa in the church
at Mora. "No," said the Dalecarlians, "we will not have it: we do not
need any picture to remind us of what our fathers have done."

The landlady was a little woman, who confessed to being forty-nine years
old, although she did not appear to be more than forty. "I have had a
great deal of headache," said she, "and I look much older than I am."
Her teeth were superb, as were those of all the women we saw. I do not
suppose a tooth-brush is known in the valley; yet the teeth one sees are
perfect pearls. The use of so much sour milk is said to preserve them.
There was a younger person in the house, whom we took to be a girl of
sixteen, but who proved to be the son's wife, a woman of twenty-six, and
the mother of two or three children. The Dalecarlians marry young when
they are able, but even in opposite cases they rarely commit any
violation of the laws of morality. Instances are frequent, I was told,
where a man and woman, unable to defray the expense of marriage, live
together for years in a state of mutual chastity, until they have saved
a sum sufficient to enable them to assume the responsibilities of
married life. I know there is no honester, and I doubt whether there is
a purer, people on the earth than these Dalecarlians.

We awoke to another glorious autumnal day. The valley was white with
frost in the morning, and the air deliciously keen and cold; but after
sunrise heavy white vapo