e at least carries away a delightful picture in his
memory. But in order to enjoy properly any Swedish landscape whatsoever,
one should not be too fresh from Norway.

After dinner we called at the "Parsonage of Mora," which has given Miss
Fredrika Bremer the materials for one of her stories of Swedish life.

The _Prost_, Herr Kjelstrom, was not at home, but his wife received us
with great cordiality, and insisted upon our remaining to tea. The
magister----, who called at the same time, gave us some information
concerning the porphyry quarries at Elfdal, which we were debating
whether we should visit. Very little is doing at present, not more than
ten men in all being employed, and in his opinion we would hardly be
repaid for the journey thither; so we determined to turn southward
again, and gradually make our way to Stockholm. Fru Kjelstrom was one of
the few Swedes I met, who was really an enthusiastic admirer of Tegner;
she knew by heart the greater part of his "Frithiof's Saga."

The morning after our arrival in Mora dawned dark and cloudy, with a
wailing wind and dashes of rain. There were threats of the equinoctial
storm, and we remembered the prediction of the lumber merchants in
Carlstad. During the night, however, a little steamer belonging to an
iron company arrived, offering us the chance of a passage down the lake
to Leksand. While we were waiting on the shore, the magister, who had
come to see us depart, gave me some information about the Lasare. He
admitted that there were many in Dalecarlia, and said that the policy of
persecution, which was practiced against them in the beginning, was now
dropped. They were, in general, ignored by the clerical authorities. He
looked upon the movement rather as a transient hallucination than as a
permanent secession from the Established Church, and seemed to think
that it would gradually disappear, if left to itself. He admitted that
the king was in favour of religious liberty, but was so guarded in
speaking of the subject that I did not ascertain his own views.

We had on board about sixty passengers, mostly peasants from Upper
Elfdal, bound on a peddling excursion through Sweden, with packs of
articles which they manufacture at home. Their stock consisted mostly of
pocket-books, purses, boxes, and various small articles of ornament and
use. The little steamer was so well laden with their solid forms that
she settled into the mud, and the crew had hard poling to get her