r
Elv, in the province of Wermeland, and thence over the hills, by way of
Westerdal, in Dalecarlia, to the head of the Siljan Lake. The greater
part of this region is almost unknown to travellers, and belongs to the
poorest and wildest parts of Sweden. We made choice of it for this
reason, that we might become acquainted with the people in their true
character, and compare them with the same class in Norway. Our heavy
luggage had all been sent on to Stockholm, in the charge of an Irish
friend, and we retained no more than could be carried easily in two
packs, as we anticipated being obliged to perform part of the journey on
foot.

It rained in torrents during the day we spent in Carlstad, and some
lumber merchants of Gottenburg, who were on their way to Fryxendal, to
superintend the getting down of their rafts, predicted that the deluge
would last an entire month. There was always a month of rainy weather at
this season they said, and we had better give up our proposed journey.
We trusted to our combined good luck however, and were not deceived,
for, with the exception of two days, we had charming weather during the
remainder of our stay in Sweden. Having engaged a two-horse cart for the
first post-station, we left Carlstad on the morning of the 11th of
September. The clouds were still heavy, but gradually rolled into
compacter masses, giving promise of breaking away. The city is built
upon a little island at the head of the lake, whence we crossed to the
mainland by a strong old bridge. Our road led eastward through a
slightly undulating country, where broad woods of fir and birch divided
the large, well cultivated farms. The _gards_, or mansions, which we
passed, with their gardens and ornamental shrubbery, gave evidence of
comfort and competence. The people were in the harvest-fields, cutting
oats, which they piled upon stakes to dry. Every one we met saluted us
courteously, with a cheerful and friendly air, which was all the more
agreeable by contrast with the Norwegian reserve.

At the station, Prestegard, we procured a good breakfast of ham, eggs,
and potatoes, and engaged two carts to take us further. We now turned
northward over a lovely rolling country, watered with frequent
streams,--a land of soft outlines, of woods and swelling knolls, to
which the stately old houses gave an expression of contentment and
household happiness. At Deye we left our carts, shouldered our packs,
and trudged off on foot up the va