ess complete fusion of the original stocks.
We were rowed across the Graven Lake by an old farmer, who wore the
costume of the last century,--a red coat, _a la_ Frederic the Great,
long waistcoat, and white knee-breeches. He demanded double the lawful
fare, which, indeed, was shamefully small; and we paid him without
demur. At Vasenden we found our carrioles and harness in good condition,
nothing having been abstracted except a ball of twine. Horses were in
waiting, apparently belonging to some well-to-do farmer; for the boys
were well dressed, and took especial care of them. We reached the
merchant's comfortable residence at Vossevangen before sunset, and made
amends on his sumptuous fare for the privations of the past three days.
We now resumed the main road between Christiania and Bergen. The same
cloudless days continued to dawn upon us. For one summer, Norway had
changed climates with Spain. Our oil-cloths were burnt up and cracked by
the heat, our clothes covered with dust, and our faces became as brown
as those of Bedouins. For a week we had not a cloud in the sky; the
superbly clear days belied the old saying of "weather-breeders."
Our road, on leaving Vossevangen, led through pine-forests, following
the course of a stream up a wild valley, enclosed by lofty mountains.
Some lovely cataracts fell from the steep on our left; but this is the
land of cataracts and there is many a one, not even distinguished by a
name, which would be renowned in Switzerland. I asked my postillion the
name of the stream beside us. "Oh," said he, "it has none; it is not big
enough!" He wanted to take us all the way through to Gudvangen,
twenty-eight miles, on our paying double fare, predicting that we would
be obliged to wait three hours for fresh horses at each intermediate
station. He waited some time at Tvinde, the first station, in the hope
that we would yield, but departed suddenly in a rage on seeing that the
horses were already coming. At this place, a stout young fellow, who had
evidently been asleep, came out of the house and stood in the door
staring at us with open mouth for a full hour. The postmaster sat on the
step and did likewise. It was the height of harvest-time, and the
weather favourable almost to a miracle; yet most of the harvesters lay
upon their backs under the trees as we passed. The women appeared to do
most of the out-door, as well as the in-door work. They are certainly
far more industrious than the men,
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