nown as darned netting. With the
development of the renaissance of art, free flowing patterns and
figure subjects were introduced and worked in.

Whether of needlepoint or pillow make, both the ornament and the
ground are produced by the lace maker. Needlepoint is made by first
stitching the net with thread along the outline of a pattern drawn on
paper or parchment, thus producing a skeleton thread pattern. This
threadwork serves as a foundation for the different figures which are
formed in the lace.

Bobbin or pillow lace more nearly resembles weaving. The threads are
fixed upon a circular or square pillow, placed variously to suit the
methods of manufacture in vogue in different countries. The object of
using the pillow is to prevent too much handling of the lace. One end
of each thread is fastened to the cushion with a pin, the main supply
of thread being twined around a small bobbin of wood, bone, or ivory.
The threads are twisted and plaited together by the lace maker, who
throws the bobbins over and under each other. The operation is fairly
simple, since children of eight or nine years of age can be trained to
it successfully. It demands, however, considerable dexterity with the
fingers.

The design for pillow lace must of course be adapted to the technical
requirements of the process, and cannot therefore be the same as one
for needlepoint, which has a better appearance and greater strength
than pillow lace. For this reason it was in former times generally
preferred for wear on occasions of state. On the other hand, pillow
lace has the quality of charming suppleness, and for use in mantillas,
veils, and fichus it is better than needlepoint, lending itself with
delicate softness and graceful flexibility as a covering to the head
and shoulders of women.

LACE TERMS DEFINED

_Alencon (Point d')._--Fine needlepoint lace with the
ground of double-twist thread in a semi-net effect. Is
usually worked with horsehair on the edges to give
firmness to the cordonnet. Called after the city in
France where it is made.

_Allover._--Name for all wide laces used for flouncing,
yokes, and entire waists. Usually the lace is over
eighteen inches in width.

_American Laces._--A general term formerly used to
distinguish lace made in this country, the development
of the industry having now rendered the term nearly
obsolete.

_Angleterre (Point d')._--Fine Brussels pillo