Long cloth to some extent
resembles batiste, fine muslins, India linen, and cambric. It is
distinguished from these fabrics by the closeness of its weave, and
when finished the fabric possesses a whiter appearance, due to the
closeness of the weave and the soft twist of the yarn. It is not used
as a dress fabric, chiefly because of its finished appearance, which
is similar in all respects to fabrics which we have been accustomed to
see used solely for lingerie, nightgowns, etc.

=Madras= is a light-weight single cloth fabric, composed of all cotton
or cotton and silk, and has excellent wearing qualities. It was at
first a light-colored checked or striped plain-faced cotton-silk
fabric, made in Madras, India, for sailors' head-dress. It is
twenty-seven inches wide, and is made of varying grades, weighing from
two to three ounces per yard, and is used at all seasons of the year.
It is used by ladies for summer skirts, shirtwaists, suits, etc., and
by men in shirts. It is known by the white and colored narrow-stripe
warp effects, and is made of cotton yarns ranging from 1/26 to 1/80
warp and filling, and from 50 to 100 or more ends per inch. The
utility of madras for nearly all classes of people permits the
greatest scope in creating both harmonious and contrasting color and
weave combinations.

The colors most in demand in this fabric are rich and delicate shades
of blue, rose, green, linen, tan, lavender, and bright red; for
prominent hair-line effects black, navy blue, dark green, royal blue,
and cherry red. Good fast color is necessary as it is a wash fabric.
If inferior colors are used, they will surely spread during the
finishing processes, and will cause a clouded stripe where a distinct
one was intended.

=Moreen.= Heavy mohair, cotton, or silk and cotton cloth, with worsted
or moire face. The making of moreen is interesting. The undyed cloth
is placed in a trough in as many layers as will take the finish. This
finish is imparted to the cloth by placing between the layers sheets
of manila paper; the contents of the trough are then saturated with
water; a heavy weighted roller is then passed over the wetted paper
and cloth, the movement of the roller giving the cloth a watered face.
It can then be dyed and refinished. The design or marking of moreen is
different on every piece. Moreen was at first made for upholstery and
drapery use. It was found to give a rustling sound similar to silk, so
was taken up for unde