eeks from the time the
manufacturing operations begin, for a stocking to emerge from the
factory in a finished form. Full-fashioned hose are made in all shades
and grades of silk and cotton, in lisle thread, and in all kinds of
cashmere, merino, and woolen goods. They are likewise knitted plain,
ribbed, and with fancy stripes and embroidery effects. In the United
States there are numerous important plants engaged in the production
of full-fashioned goods, while large quantities are annually imported
from Germany and France.

=Finishing Process.= When socks and stockings are taken off of the
knitting machines they present an unfinished appearance, being loose,
puckered, dirty, and generally shapeless. Scouring, dyeing, shaping,
and pressing serve to improve their looks, and these finishing
operations constitute a distinct branch of the industry. While still
in a moist state the hose are shaped. This is effected by the use of
forming-boards made of wood and about one-half of an inch in
thickness. The sock or stocking is carefully stretched over the "form"
while damp, and then placed in a heated chamber and allowed to dry.
The goods assume the shape of the wooden "form," and will always hold
it if the work has been carefully and thoroughly done. After they have
been taken from the drying chamber and the boards removed the hose are
pressed between heavy metal plates or rollers, looked over for
defects, and when boxed or bundled are ready for market.

CHAPTER XIII

LACE

=Lace.= Lace is the name applied to an ornamental open work of threads
of flax, cotton, silk, gold, or silver, and occasionally of mohair or
aloe fiber. The latter are used by the peasants of Italy and Spain.

Lace consists of two parts, the ground and the flower. The threads may
be looped, plaited, or twisted in one of three ways. First, with a
needle, when the work is known as "needlepoint lace." Second, when
bobbins, pins, and a pillow or cushion are used; this is called
"pillow lace." Third, by machinery, when imitations of both point and
pillow lace patterns are produced.

Special patterns for these laces date from the beginning of the
sixteenth century. The early productions of the art had some analogy
to weaving; the patterns were stiff and geometrical, sometimes cut out
of linen or separately sewed and applied to the meshed surface, but
more frequently they were darned in, the stitches being counted in, as
in tapestry. This kind was k