" Tram silk is made by twisting two or more loosely
twisted threads. It is heavier than organzine and is used for filling.
Organzine silk is produced by uniting a number of strongly twisted
threads. It is used for warp. Crepe yarn is used in making crepe,
chiffon, and for other purposes. It is very hard twisted thread,
generally tram, from forty to eighty turns per inch.
Embroidery silk is made by winding the raw silk, putting a large
number of ends together, giving them a slack twist, then doubling and
twisting in the reverse direction with a slack twist.
Sewing silk is made by winding and doubling the raw product, then
twisting into tram, giving it a slack twist, doubling and twisting in
the reverse direction under tension. Machine twist is similar, but
three ply.
The principal fabrics made of silk are: silk, satin, plush, chenille,
crepe, crepon, gauze, damask, brocade, pongee, and ribbons. Silk
thread and cord are also extensively used. The United States is among
the leaders in the manufacture of silk fabrics.
=Silk Waste.= When the cocoons are softened for reeling a certain
portion of the silk is found to consist of waste and broken threads.
The tangled silk on the outside of the cocoon is called floss. The
residue after reeling, and other wastes in reeling, are known as
frisonnets. Floss silk is not used for weaving. It is a slack twisted
tram, generally composed of a large number of threads of singles.
=Spun Silk.= There is another class of threads made from waste silk by
spinning and known as spun silk. Waste silks include the pierced
cocoons, that is, those from which the moth has come out by making the
hole and breaking the fibers in one end of the cocoon; the waste made
in the filatures in producing raw or reeled silk, chiefly the outside
fiber of the cocoon and the inside next the chrysalis; and also the
waste made in manufacture. The waste silk is ungummed; that is, the
gum is removed from the fibers by boiling with soap, by macerating or
retting, or by chemical reagents.
After the gum is removed from the cocoons, they are opened and combed,
most of the chrysalis shell being removed. The remainder, with other
foreign matter, is picked out by hand from the combed silk. The silk
is put through a number of drawing frames to get the fibers even on
the roving frames, where it first takes the form of thread, then on
the spinning frames, where it is twisted. If it is to be used as
singles, the manufac
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