y of qualities will suggest some idea of
the utility of the fabric. Its uses are even more varied than are the
qualities. The finer grades are used for dress goods and all kinds of
lingerie for summer wear, etc., while the cheaper grades are used for
linings in washable and unwashable shirt waists. Batiste is woven in
the gray, that is, with yarn direct from the spinning frame, with the
exception that the warp yarn is well sized, in order to stand better
the strain to which it is subjected during the weaving process.

=Bourrette.= A light weight, single cloth fabric, with two-ply cotton
warp and wool or a combination of cotton and shoddy filling, made with
the plain weave and in appearance a semi-rough-faced woolen fabric
with fancy effects in twist scattered about it. It is used principally
for ladies' fall suitings.

=Bedford Cord.= This is one of the most popular types of fabrics, the
distinguishing effect being a line or cord running lengthwise of the
cloth, the cord being more or less prominent. The cloth is made of
cotton, or sometimes of worsted. The face effect of the Bedford cord
is generally plain. Occasionally twill-faced cords are used. The cords
vary in width from about one twentieth to one quarter of an inch. To
get extra weight without altering the appearance of the face, extra
warp yarns, termed wadding ends, are inserted between the face weave
and the filling, floating at the back of the rib. When these wadding
ends are coarse, they give a pronounced rounded appearance to the
cord. They run from 88 to 156 picks to an inch.

=Buckram.= Buckram is derived from Bokhara. It may be described as a
coarse, glue-sized fabric, and is made of cotton, hemp, linen, or
cotton and hair (coarse) yarns, usually from 10s to 25s. Made of a
double cloth warp, 22s cotton, 34 picks to the inch, for the face or
top fabric 1/12's[17]; weight from loom 2.22 ozs. per yard. Bottom
fabric 1/12's cotton; filling 1/16's cotton; 12 picks to the inch.
Weight per yard, 1.8 ounces. These fabrics depend a great deal on the
finishing. The men's wear requires less sizing on account of the hair
it contains. The goods are piece dyed. Buckram is used principally for
stiffening garments, and to give them shape or form. It is placed
between the lining and the surface cloth of the garment in particular
parts, such as the lapels, etc. It is used in the millinery trade, and
is made into hats. Millinery buckram is sized two or three times.

=C