then wrung
out and hung up to "age" for two hours, after which it is ready for
the logwood dye.
6. =Dyeing.= A bath of logwood liquor is prepared to which is added 10
per cent of fustic, and the solution is brought to a temperature of
150 degrees F. In this the silk is entered and worked for an hour,
then taken out and wrung dry. Sometimes the black does not come up
full enough, and in such cases the bath is repeated.
7. The final operation has for its object the restoration of the
luster and suppleness of the silk, which has to some extent
deteriorated from the many operations through which it has passed. The
brightening and softening of the fiber are effected by immersing the
silk in a bath of olive oil in the form of an emulsion. In this the
silk is worked until it is thoroughly impregnated with the oil, when
it is taken out and wrung dry, after which it is ready for the loom.
Practically the same process is followed in piece dyeing, though only
inferior grades of silk are dyed in the web.
=Colored Silks.= This class of silks is generally purer than black and
sad-colored silks. It is not nearly so easy to weight the former as
the latter, for the reason that there are but few substances capable
of giving weight which do not interfere with the effect of light
colored dyes. The weighting agents most generally used are sugar and
acetate of lead. The weighting by sugar is done after the silk is
dyed. A solution is made of pure lump sugar by placing it in a large
copper pan with water and heating until dissolved. In this bath the
silk is thoroughly saturated, and then dried and finished; or, the
dipping process may be repeated several times if desired. One dipping
will weight the silk about 12 per cent, two about 20 per cent, and
three about 30 per cent. In a solution of acetate of lead, each
dipping will weight the silk about 8 per cent, and these may be
repeated as often as it is wished. In this case the weighting is
generally done on the undyed, boiled-off silk, although it may be done
on the dyed silk if the color is such as will stand the acid.
=Mixed Silk Fabrics.= Until lately silk was invariably dyed in the
state of yarn. When the silk was to be woven into mixed fabrics, such
as satin, gloria, etc., it was impossible to dye both fibers exactly
the same shade. Formerly such fabrics were woven with the cotton and
silk yarns dyed separately, care being taken to match them as closely
as possible. The weaving
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