undyed yarns. In the finer grades the warp is sized so as to
facilitate the weaving process.
=Jaconet.= A thin cotton fabric, heavier than cambric. If properly
made one side is glazed. Derived from the French word _jaconas_.
=Khaki.= Twilled cotton cloth of a brown dust color, first used for
men's clothing in India. The word _khaki_ is Indian for earth, or
dust-colored.
=Lawn.= Lawn is a light-weight single cloth wash fabric, weighing from
one and one fourth to two and one fourth ounces per yard, and in
widths from thirty-six to forty inches finished. It is composed of all
cotton yarns (bleached) from 1/40's to 1/100's, and is always woven
with a plain weave, one up, one down. The name is from Laon, a place
near Rheims, France, where lawn was extensively made. Plain lawn is
made of solid white or bleached yarn in both warp and filling. The
fancier grades, or those having color effects, are produced by
printing vines, floral stripes, small flowers, etc., in bright colors
in scattered effects on the face of the goods. The patterns are always
printed, never woven. Lawn, when finished, should have a soft, smooth
feel. Therefore the finishing process includes brushing, very light
starching or sizing, then calendering or pressing. Lawns have to be
handled carefully in the bleaching process, starched with an ordinary
starch mangle (the sizing containing a little blueing), finished on
the Stenter machine, and dried with hot air. Lawns are often tinted
light shades of blue, pink, cream, pearl, green, and other light
tints, with the direct colors added to the starch. It is used
principally in the manufacture of ladies' and children's summer
dresses, sash curtains, etc.
=Lingerie.= This relates to all sorts of ladies' and children's
undergarments, such as skirts, underskirts, infants' short dresses,
chemises, night robes, drawers, corset covers, etc.
=Linon= is a fine, closely woven plain fabric, well known for its
excellent wearing and washing qualities. It is made from combed cotton
yarns of long-stapled stocks to resemble as closely as possible fine
linen fabrics. The cloth structure is firmly made in the loom.
=Long Cloth= is a fine cotton fabric of superior quality, made with a
fine grade of cotton yarn of medium twist. Originally the fabric was
manufactured in England, and subsequently imitated in the United
States. The fabric is used for infants' long dresses, from which it
derives its name, and for lingerie.
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