calendering machine upon the sizing.

=Souffle.= The largest designs of crepon show a raised or puffed
appearance. Souffle is from the French and means puffed.

=Swiss.= From Switzerland, where the plain Swiss net and figured
cambric is a specialty in the St. Gall district.

=Tape.= Tape is a narrow fabric composed either of cotton or linen
yarns in warp and filling, and usually made with a point or broken
twill weave, the break in the weave occurring in the center of the
tape, and the twill lines running in a right- and left-hand direction.
It is used as a trimming in the manufacture of clothing, also as a
binding in innumerable cases, and is sold by the roll, each roll
containing a certain number of yards. It is made of all bleached and
of regular yarns about 1/26's to 1/30's and 1/40's cotton.

=Tarletan.= An open mesh of coarse cotton, used mostly in fruit
packing, sometimes for dress and drapery. The name is from
_tarlantanna_, Milanese for coarse weave of linen and wool.

=Terry Cloth or Turkish Toweling= is a cotton pile fabric. It is woven
in such a way as to permit the forming of a series of loops on each
side of the cloth in regular order. After leaving the loom each piece
is laid separately in the bleaching kier. Then the goods are dried on
a tenter frame, given a light starching to add weight, run through a
rubber rolled mangle and again dried on a tenter frame. This cloth is
used in the manufacture of towels, Turkish bath robes, etc. Turkish
toweling is the original terry. The name is from the French _tirer_,
to draw or pull.

=Zephyr Gingham= is the finest grade of gingham made and is a
light-weight cotton fabric, composed of 1/40's to 1/60's cotton warp
and filling yarns. It is woven with either the plain weave or a small
all-over dobby effect. It is made in attractive patterns by using good
fast colors in warp and filling, and as a cloth has excellent wearing
qualities.

FOOTNOTES:

[16] This information is from the leading authority, "The Cotton
Fabrics Glossary," published by the _American Wool and Cotton
Reporter_, Boston, Mass., and is reprinted here through the kindness
of Mr. Frank P. Bennett.

[17] 1/12's cotton signifies single cotton yarn of 12's. 2/12's cotton
signifies two sets of single cotton yarn of 12's twisted together.

CHAPTER XV

FLAX

=Flax.= Flax or linen occupies the first position in the group of stem
fibers,[18] being not only the oldest, but next to cott