hallow the
desolate sierras for the artist at all seasons. The poet has only to
wander among the former haunts of the exiled Moors, and view the
crumbling monuments of his luxurious and artistic taste, to be equally
absorbed and inspired.

CHAPTER XI.

From Malaga to Granada.--Military Escort.--A Beautiful Valley.--A
Dream Realized in the Alhambra.--The Moor in his Glory.--Tangible
Poetry.--A Brief Legend.--The Generalife.--The Moor's Seat.--The
Home of the Gypsies.--A Gold Bearing River.--A Beautiful
Residence.--Early Home of the Ex-Empress Eugenie.--City of
Granada.--Spanish Beggars.--The Remarkable Tomb of Ferdinand and
Isabella.--French Vandals.--The Cathedral.--Precious Relic.--The
Cartuja.--Love of Music.

The distance from Malaga to Granada is about seventy miles, but in
Spanish style it requires eight or nine hours to accomplish it. Needless
delay is the rule here, and forms a national infirmity; but in the
present instance we did not feel in special haste, nor regret the
snail's pace at which the cars were run, as the road lay mostly through
a very beautiful valley, lined on either side by high hills extending
back until they terminated in lofty, snow-clad ranges. The contrast
between these ice-crowned elevations not very far away, and the orchards
of oranges and lemons in full bearing so near to us, was certainly
striking. The dull, dusty green of the olive orchards, of which there
were more than of all other trees combined, gave a rather sombre
appearance to many miles of the route; but the cheerful light verdure of
the occasional grain fields and pastures afforded relief to the eye.

There were but few people to be seen, quite unlike European agricultural
districts generally, where human life is ever so conspicuous. The
cultivated spots seemed to be very far away from the hamlets whence the
owners must come for field labor. It was obvious that for some strong
reason the populace, sparse at best, herd together. There were no
isolated farm-houses or huts. The cultivators must ride or walk long
distances to reach the field of labor. Perhaps mutual protection, as in
the olden time, was the inducing cause of the country people thus
keeping together, and the necessity of congregating for mutual support
in an exigency has by no means entirely ceased. Now and then the cars
would dart suddenly into a dark tunnel, when we skirted the mountain
sides, to emerge again