e in bed also. Perhaps this apparent obtuseness
on the part of gentlemen arises from the well-known fact that many of
the ladies themselves indulge in the cigarette, though rarely in public.
The writer has more than once seen the practice as exhibited in popular
cafes whither both sexes resorted. At the bull-ring many of the common
class of women had cigarettes between their lips.

Sunday is an acknowledged gala-day in Madrid, though the attendance upon
early mass is very general, especially among the women. It is here, as
at Paris and other European capitals, the chosen day for military
parades, horse-races, and the bull-fight. Most of the shops are open and
realize a profitable business, and especially is this the case with
those devoted to the sale of cigars, liquors, fancy goods, and the
cafes: with them it is the busiest day of the whole week. The lottery
ticket vendor makes a double day's work on this occasion, and the
itinerant gamblers, with portable stands, have crowds about their tables
wherever they locate. The flower-girls, with dainty little baskets, rich
in color and captivating in fragrance, press buttonhole bouquets on the
pedestrians, and, shall we whisper it? make appointments with
susceptible cavaliers; while men perambulate the streets with bon-bons
displayed upon cases hung from their necks; in short, Sunday is made a
fete day, when grandees and beggars complacently come forth like
marching regiments into the Puerto del Sol. The Prado and public gardens
are thronged with gayly-dressed people, children, and nurses,--the
costume of the latter got up in the most theatrical style, with broad
red or blue ribbons hanging down behind from their snow-white caps, and
sweeping the very ground at their heels. No one stays within doors on
Sunday in Madrid, and all Europe loves the out-door sunshine.

We have said that the Spanish capital was deficient in buildings of
architectural pretension. This is quite true; but the country is rich in
the character of her monuments, possessing one order of architecture
elsewhere little known. Our guide called it very appropriately the
Morisco style, which has grown out of the combination of Moorish and
Christian art. The former attained, during the Middle Ages, as great
importance in Spain as in the East. This is, perhaps, more clearly
manifested in Andalusia than elsewhere; here its harmony is presented in
many brilliant examples and combinations. The greatest wealth of th