in the
neighboring mountains. Indeed, larger, or finer agates cannot be found
in Europe than those which ornament the Cartuja. In the natural veins of
the large marbles the guide takes pleasure in suggesting likenesses to
various objects, which, when once mentioned, easily form themselves to
the imagination, as a wayward fancy sometimes depicts forms in the
fleeting clouds at twilight.

There is a dearth of song-birds in Granada. We heard of, but not from,
the nightingales in the sacred precincts of the Alhambra. Perhaps it was
not the favored season, however, for this purpose. The people themselves
are naturally musical and music-loving. Even the street-cries uttered by
youthful and middle-aged vendors are rendered in such harmonious notes
as to strike the ear agreeably. This was noticed in Malaga, and also
claimed our attention here. On the road one not infrequently meets some
roughly-dressed muleteer at the head of his string of heavily-laden
animals, caroling forth luscious notes in a fine tenor voice which a
Brignoli might envy. A taste for music is born in the people, few of
whom are too poor to own and play upon a guitar or some musical
instrument. The only difference between Spain and Italy in this respect
is that here one does not recognize the music, while in Italy we usually
hear the strains of some familiar opera.

CHAPTER XII.

Granada to Cordova.--An Antique City.--The Guadalquivir.--Old Roman
Bridge.--The Grand Mosque-Cathedral of Cordova.--Court of
Orange-Trees.--Army of Beggars.--From Cordova to Madrid.--Local
Characteristics of the Capital.--The Gate of the Sun.--The King and
Queen in Public.--The Royal Palace.--Spanish Ladies and
Gentlemen.--The Fan.--The Picture-Gallery of Madrid.--National
Sport of the Bull-Fight.--Cowardice!--Interesting Visit to the City
of Toledo.--The Escurial.

The journey from Granada to Cordova covers a distance of about a hundred
and twenty-five miles, and passes through a comparatively
well-cultivated and interesting country, where the vine, the orange, and
the lemon, together with the universal olive, are abundant and thrifty.
The oil extracted from the latter product forms a large source of profit
to the southern and middle provinces of Spain. The road, soon after
starting, lay through a succession of valleys and lofty hills, rendering
the construction of many tunnels and viaducts necessary. Occasionally we
came out of