ns, which had for a while ranged just ahead of us,
when one of them seemed suddenly to open a wide mouth at its base as if
to swallow the train. In it rushed puffing and snorting through a dark
tunnel nearly a mile long, until at last we emerged on the opposite side
of the mountain into a scene of great beauty, overlooking a valley
worthy of Japan. Far up towards the blue sky was the snow under which we
had been hidden in the darkness of the tunnel, while in this lower range
we were surrounded with verdure and bloom. Here were graceful trees,
smiling bits of landscape, flocks of sheep, tumbling cascades, so
grouped and mingled as to seem like a theatrical effect rather than
nature.

We came into San Sebastian in the early twilight; a somewhat famous
watering-place on the boisterous Bay of Biscay, drawing its patronage
largely from Madrid, though of late both English and Americans have
resorted thither. It is a small city, but the thriftiest and most
business-like to be found in Spain when its size is considered. The
place was entirely destroyed by fire when captured from the French by
the English,--a piece of sanguinary work which cost the latter five
thousand men. It was on this occasion that Wellington is reported to
have said: "The next dreadful thing to a battle lost is a battle won."
The dwellings are modern and handsome, the streets broad and well paved,
the squares ornamented by shrubbery and fountains, and the drives in the
environs and on the beach are very inviting. In short San Sebastian is a
model watering-place for summer resort with several good hotels. It will
be remembered that Wellington fought some severe battles in this
vicinity in 1813. On the way from Burgos the battle-field of Vittoria
was pointed out, where the French army was thoroughly routed. The
Spanish government has made a miniature Gibraltar of San Sebastian.
Overlooking the harbor is a lofty fortification which commands the town
and all of its approaches. From the fort, which costs a good climb to
reach, a very fine view is obtained of a broad extent of country. Whole
blocks of new buildings were in course of construction, and San
Sebastian seemed to be preparing for a large summer business. Seen from
a short distance, as one approaches in the cars, the grouping of the
town, with the lofty and frowning fortification, its neat white
dwellings and undulating surface, makes a pleasing picture, standing out
in bold relief against the blue sky