pulation, and sent forth armies, and fought
great battles, in the days of the Goths. The cathedral is visited by
architects from all parts of Europe and America, solely as a
professional study. It is a remarkably fine sample of the Gothic order,
which Coleridge called petrified religion, and exhibits in all its parts
that great achievement of the art, entire harmony of design and
execution; while the richness of its ornamentation and its artistic
wealth, not to mention, in detail, its gold and silver plate, make it
the rival of most other cathedrals in the world, with the possible
exception of that at Burgos. Its size is vast, with a tower reaching
three hundred feet heavenward, and the interior having five great naves,
divided by over eighty lofty columns. It is said to contain more
stained-glass windows than any other cathedral that was ever built. The
effect of the clear morning light, as imparted to the interior through
this great surface of delicately-tinted glass, is remarkably beautiful.
The high altar, a marvel of splendid workmanship and minute detail, is
yet a little confusing, from the myriads of statues, groups, emblems,
columns, gilding, and ornaments generally; but it seems to be the
purpose of most of these Roman Catholic churches to turn the altars into
a species of museum. Guides are always plentifully supplied with
marvelous legends for travelers; and ours, on this occasion, simply
bristled all over with them as regarded this church. One of these, which
he persisted in pouring into our unbelieving ears, was to the effect
that, when the cathedral was completed and dedicated, so perfect was it
found to be that the Virgin descended bodily to visit it, and to
express, by her presence, her entire satisfaction!

Toledo stands there upon the boldest promontory of the Tagus,--a dead
and virtually deserted city. Coveted by various conquerors, she has been
besieged more than twenty times; so that the river beneath the walls has
often flowed red with human gore, where it is spanned by the graceful
bridge of Alcantara. Phoenicians, Romans, Goths, Moors, and Christians,
all have fought for and have possessed, for a greater or less period,
the castle-crowned city. Its story is written in letters scarlet with
blood and dark with misery; illustrating Irving's idea that history is
but a kind of Newgate calendar, a register of the crimes and miseries
that man has inflicted on his fellow-man. Only the skeleton of a once