ux was found to
be a much larger and finer city than we had realized. The topographical
formation is that of a crescent along the shore of the Garonne, which
here forms a broad and navigable harbor, though it is located some sixty
miles from the sea. There were many Roman antiquities and ancient
monuments to be seen, all interesting, venerable with the wear and tear
of eighteen centuries. The public buildings, commanding in their
architectural character, were found to be adorned with admirable
sculpture and some fine paintings. The ancient part of the town has
narrow and crooked streets, but the modern portion is open, airy, and
has good architectural display. The Grand Theatre is remarkably
effective with its noble Ionic columns, built a little more than a
century since by Louis XVI. Bordeaux is connected by canal with the
Mediterranean and has considerable commerce, especially in the
importation of American whiskey, which is sent back to the United States
and exported elsewhere as good Bordeaux brandy, after being carefully
doctored. The Sabbath was passed here, but its observance or
non-observance is like that common in Continental cities. It is a mere
day of recreation, the Roman Catholic element attending mass, and
devoting the balance of the day to amusement. There were performances at
all of the theatres, the stores and shops were generally open, and very
large fine shops they are. In the afternoon two balloons were sent up
from the Champ de Mars: one a mammoth in size, containing half a dozen
persons; the other smaller, containing but one person to manage it--a
lady. There were at least fifty thousand people in the great square to
witness the ascension,--a very orderly and well-dressed throng. A
military band played during the inflating process, and the promenaders
and loungers presented a gay concourse.

There was an unmistakable aspect of business prosperity about the
streets of the city. Everybody seemed active and engaged in some
purpose. There were few loungers, and, we must make a note of it, no
beggars. It was observable that the large Norman horses used in the
working teams were sleek and fat, splendid creatures; such as Rosa
Bonheur represents in her famous picture of the Horse Fair. What a
contrast these noble, well-kept animals presented to the poor,
half-starved creatures to be met with in the East, and, indeed, in only
too many of the European cities,--Rome, Florence, Antwerp, and Madrid.
We are no