Red Sea; it is too intricate, and the chances too hazardous
for anything but steam power to encounter. The color of the sea, so far
from being red, is deeply blue, and where it becomes shoal changes to a
pale green; but the color of all large expanses of water is constantly
changing from various causes. The reflection of the clouds will turn its
blue to a dark indigo tint, and even to inky blackness. Experienced
seamen, foremast hands, who have no access to the charts, will tell by
the color of the water, after a long voyage, that the land is near at
hand; the clear transparent blue becomes an olive green, and as the
water grows more shallow it grows also lighter.

Landing at Suez early in the morning we strolled about the town, which
presented hardly a feature of local interest, except that it was Suez
and unlike any other place one had ever seen. The landscape, if worthy
of the name, consisted of far-reaching sand and water; not a single tree
or sign of vegetation was visible. All was waste and barrenness. The hot
sun permeating the atmosphere caused a shimmering in the air, the
tremulous effect of which was trying to the eyes, and deceptive almost
like a mirage. It was a relief even when a tall awkward necked camel
came between one and the line of vision. A characteristic scene
emphasized the surrounding desolation, on a neighboring sand-hill, where
a flock of vultures were feeding upon the carcass of a mule. Disturbed
for a moment they rose lazily, and circling about the spot settled again
to their carrion feast. Though there has been a settlement here for five
centuries, the place has only sprung into commercial importance since
the completion of M. de Lesseps' great enterprise of wedding the
Mediterranean and Red Seas. There was a noticeable mingling of
nationalities as forming the rather incongruous community. We counted
half a dozen insignificant mosques, and visited the Arabian bazars, but
saw nothing of interest save a few corals and some handsome shells from
the neighboring sea. The people themselves were more attractive and
curious than the goods they displayed. Sailors were lounging about the
bar-rooms in large numbers, and the sale of cheap liquors appeared to be
the one prevailing business of Suez. The floating population was
composed of Arabs, Maltese, Greeks, and Italians. Some of the
first-named race were noticeable as nervous, sinewy, broad-chested
fellows, with narrow thighs and well-shaped limbs, lik