EREUPON MAKE DOUGH CRUMBS OF FLOUR
AND OIL [1] LAY THE DOUGH OVER OR AROUND THE HAM, STUD THE TOP WITH
THE PIECES OF THE SKIN SO THAT THEY WILL BE BAKED WITH THE DOUGH [bake
slowly] AND WHEN DONE, RETIRE FROM THE OVEN AND SERVE [2].

[1] Ordinary pie or pastry dough, or perhaps a
preparation similar to streusel, unsweetened.

[2] Experimenting with this formula, we have adhered to
the instructions as closely as possible, using regular
pie dough to envelop the parboiled meat. The figs were
retired from the sauce pan long before the meat was done
and they were served around the ham as a garnish. As a
consequence we partook of a grand dish that no inmate of
Olympus would have sneezed at.

In Pompeii an inn-keeper had written the following on
the wall of his establishment: _Ubi perna cocta est si
convivae apponitur non gustat pernam linguit ollam aut
caccabum._

When we first beheld this message we took the inn-keeper
for a humorist and clever advertiser; but now we are
convinced that he was in earnest when he said that his
guests would lick the sauce pan in which his hams were
cooked.

[288] TO COOK PORK SHOULDER
_PERNAE _[1]_ COCTURAM_

HAM SIMPLY COOKED IN WATER WITH FIGS IS USUALLY DRESSED ON A PLATTER
[baking pan] SPRINKLED WITH CRUMBS AND REDUCED WINE, OR, STILL BETTER,
WITH SPICED WINE [and is glazed under the open flame, or with a shovel
containing red-hot embers].

[1] _Perna_ is usually applied to shoulder of pork,
fresh, also cured.

_Coxa_ is the hind leg, or haunch of pork, or fresh ham.
Cf. note 1 to {Rx} No. 289.

X

[289] FRESH HAM
_MUSTEIS _[1]_ PETASONEM_ [2]

A FRESH HAM IS COOKED WITH 2 POUNDS OF BARLEY AND 25 FIGS. WHEN DONE
SKIN, GLAZE THE SURFACE WITH A FIRE SHOVEL FULL OF GLOWING COALS,
SPREAD HONEY OVER IT, OR, WHAT'S BETTER: PUT IT IN THE OVEN COVERED
WITH HONEY. WHEN IT HAS A NICE COLOR, PUT IN A SAUCE PAN RAISIN WINE,
PEPPER, A BUNCH OF RUE AND PURE WINE TO TASTE. WHEN THIS [sauce] IS
DONE, POUR HALF OF IT OVER THE HAM AND IN THE OTHER HALF SOAK
SPECIALLY MADE GINGER BREAD [3] THE REMNANT OF THE SAUCE AFTER MOST OF
IT IS THOROUGHLY SOAKED INTO THE BREAD, ADD TO THE HAM [4].

[1] _Musteus_, fresh, young, new; _vinum mustum_, new
wine, must. Properly perhaps, _Petasonem ex mustaceis_;
cf. note 3.

[2] Hum. _verum petaso coxa cum crure_ [shank] _esse
dici