re also made from it without
blocking.

Must be dampened before using. Not recommended for amateurs.

WIRE comes in black, white, silver, and gilt, and is covered with
cotton, mercerized cotton, and silk. It may be procured in single and
double bolts.

CABLE--

Largest wire used in millinery. In making wire frames, it is used as
edge wire and sometimes for the entire frame. Being larger than frame
wire, it makes a pleasing effect when used as part of the wire frame
design, if it is to be covered with sheer material.

FRAME OR BRACE WIRE--

Used in making frames and is sewed on the edge of all buckram and fabric
hat frames.

LACE--

Smaller than frame wire, used for wiring lace ribbon and flowers, and
sometimes for making an entire frame when a very dainty design is
desired.

[Illustration: SHOWING SHAPED BRIM OF NETEEN WITH RIBBON-WIRE BRACES
BASTED IN PLACE]

TIE--

Smallest wire used in millinery; comes wound on spools. Is used
to tie other wires, and in making hand-made flowers. Comes in black,
white, and green.

RIBBON--

A cotton ribbon about three eighths of an inch wide, with a fine wire
woven through the center, also a wire on each edge. Used to wire
ribbons.

SPRUNG--

An uncovered steel wire used to make halo brims; is sometimes sewed on
edge of buckram or other fabric brims, if the hat is unusually wide, or
if a brim is to be especially stiff. It is occasionally used as an edge
wire on wire frames.

HAT FRAMES OF FABRIC

Much care, thought, and patience must be exercised in making the frame
of any hat. It is the foundation upon which we build, and if poorly made
no amount of work can cover it up later. A hat must be right every step
of the way. The frame is the first step, and so the most important.

The simplest hat to make is the straight brim sailor with a square
crown, covered with velvet. Such a model we will take up at first.

SAILOR HAT FRAME--

For convenience we will use the following dimensions: Width of brim,
three inches; height of crown, three and one-half inches; length of
crown tip, eight and one-half inches; width of crown tip, six and
one-half inches, and headsize, twenty-four inches.

PATTERN FOR BRIM--

Cut from a piece of manila paper fourteen and one-half by fourteen and
one-half inches the largest possible circle; the paper may be folded
into halves, then quarters, then into eighths and creased.

A round brim will not be of equal w