dsize wire. Remove the wire and cut the paper
on this line. Cut pattern in two at back and lay out flat on smooth side
of buckram, leaving pins in slashes. Cut close to outside edge and allow
one-fourth inch for the lap at ends. Mark on buckram with pencil close
to headsize line and cut one-half inch inside this mark. Lap ends
one-fourth inch and backstitch closely at each edge of flap. Sew a
strip of crinoline flat over seam to smooth it up. Sew headsize wire on
place marked, which will be one-half inch from inside edge. Keep all
joinings at back. Slash buckram from inside edge to headsize wire every
half inch. Wire edge of brim and cover wire with crinoline--same method
as used on sailor brim.

TO COVER A MUSHROOM-SHAPED BRIM--

If not very drooping, it may be covered without making a seam in the
material. To do this, begin by placing the corner of the fabric on top
at the front of the brim. Pin the front, back, and each side, always
pulling with the thread of the material, and pin closely at edge, with
pins at right angles to the brim. If covered with georgette, satin or
silk, which is pliable, the fullness may all be worked out without a
seam. Baste close to headsize wire and finish edge by following same
method as used in finishing sailor brim. Also follow same method with
facing. If the material used is not pliable, or if the brim is too
drooping to admit of stretching the material smoothly, a seam must be
made at the back. The method would be the same as used in covering the
rolled brim.

SHEER MATERIALS--

In covering with anything as sheer as georgette, it is advisable to line
with some other material first. The color could be made deeper by using
a lining of the same color, or made paler by lining with white. The
lining should be fitted and sewed on with the outside material.

PATTERN FOR HAT WITH ROLLED OR CLOSE-FITTING BRIM--

The pattern for any hat is first cut from a flat piece of paper. The
headsize is marked as for flat sailor and the headsize wire pinned on.
The pattern is then slashed in to headsize wire from the outside edge,
the slashes lapped over and pinned. If the hat is to be rolled more
closely on one side than on the other, the greater number of slashes
must be placed there. In this way the pattern can be adjusted to any
desired shape. It is an advantage sometimes to cut the paper pattern
through in the back, leaving pins in the slashes, and lay out flat on
another piece of paper