. Slash across this paper
in four equally distant places, within one-fourth inch of edge of
bottom, then lap slashes at top a little more than one-fourth inch, or
about enough to take out about one and one-half inches. Pin slashes. Lap
ends of paper one-fourth inch and pin together. Place this pattern on
brim with joining at back and pin to upturned slashes on brim. Try on to
see if any alterations are necessary. It can be decided at this point
and changes made should the crown be too sloping or too straight. An
amateur should try on a frame often in order to be assured of lines and
curves that are becoming. Remove pattern from brim and cut off from top
and bottom any irregularities on the edge.

TO CUT SIDE CROWN FROM BUCKRAM--

Remove the pins from the seam, allowing pins in slashes to remain. Lay
pattern flat on smooth side of buckram, lengthwise of the material to
take advantage of the natural roll. Cut close to pattern; lap the ends
one-fourth inch. Sew, using a fine back stitch close to each edge; this
makes two rows of stitching. Sew a piece of frame wire to top and bottom
of side crown, keeping all joining at back. Use same method as in sewing
edge wire on brim. Cover both wires with crinoline.

CROWN TIPS--

The top of the crown may be kept soft-looking or it may be made of
buckram, producing a stiff effect. Both methods will be given.

SOFT CROWN TIP--First shape side crown to fit headsize wire on brim,
which will be an ellipse. Cut piece of crinoline, the exact shape of the
crown, plus one inch all around. Pin this over top, puffing it a very
little, and sew with stab stitch close under wire. Cut surplus material
off to one-fourth inch.

STIFF CROWN TIP, MADE OF BUCKRAM--Lay top of side crown on smooth side
of buckram and mark the shape with a pencil. Cut buckram one-half inch
outside of this mark. Next, in order to fold down this stiff crown tip,
it will be necessary to cut, from this half-inch of buckram outside the
pencil line, small wedge-like pieces, about one inch apart. Cut them
close to the line drawn. Pin this piece on top of crown, press flaps
down and sew on with stab stitch.

CROWNS--

If a round crown is to be used it is advisable to buy a ten-cent
separate crown or a frame with a round crown. If an entire frame is
purchased, remove the crown and wire its bottom edge. After some skill
has been acquired by the student of millinery, a round crown of fabric
may be blocked by hand ove