actory joint can be made with ease, before attempting to
make a frame of wire.

[Illustration: TO TIE TWO WIRES WITH TIE WIRE]

[Illustration: TO TIE TWO WIRES DIAGONALLY WITH USE OF TIE WIRE]

[Illustration: METHOD OF MAKING PAPER PATTERN FOR DROOPING BRIM]

[Illustration: METHOD OF PINNING FABRIC ON DROOPING BRIM]

[Illustration: BRAID-COVERED BRIM SHOWING METHOD OF FILLING IN SHORT
LENGTHS WHEN THE DIFFERENCE IN WIDTH OF THE TWO SIDES IS VERY GREAT]

[Illustration: PATTERN PINNED IN PLEATS FOR SHAPED BRIMS OF FABRIC.
ILLUSTRATION SHOWS PATTERN PINNED ON BUCKRAM READY TO CUT]

TO FASTEN TWO PIECES OF BRACE WIRE DIAGONALLY--

TO FASTEN TWO PIECES OF BRACE WIRE WITHOUT THE USE OF TIE WIRE--

Hold the strand of wire against the wire to which it is to be fastened,
at right angles to it, with about two and one-half or three inches
extending beyond the point at which the twist is to be made. Press the
end straight backward, close to and parallel with the other end of the
wire. The end should pass once and a half around. Use the jaws of the
pliers to press parallel wires in the twist together, and to tighten the
twist. Cut the end off close and use the pliers to press the end down
flat.

TO MAKE WIRE FRAME FOR HAT HAVING FLAT BRIM AND SQUARE CROWN--

Always remember that it will greatly simplify the work first to make a
paper pattern for every hat. A hat is seldom made with all sections of
the brim of equal width, and this is one important reason why it is more
satisfactory first to make a paper pattern.

PATTERN FOR BRIM--

Make a pattern the same as for a straight-brim sailor, being careful to
fold the pattern in halves from front to back, and to crease sharply.
Fold the halves into fourths and the fourths into eighths and crease.
This is to determine the position of the wire spokes in the brim. The
eight creases will correspond to the eight spokes in the brim; this is
the correct number of spokes.

HEADSIZE WIRE FOR WIRE FRAME--

A wire frame needs two headsize wires, so cut two just alike,
remembering always that the headsize wire is the most important wire in
any hat, as the comfort of the wearer depends upon the measurements
taken for this wire. Measure as for the headsize in a fabric hat,
lapping the ends one inch, and tying them. Try on these wires and shape
to fit the head. They should usually be elongated two inches.

Pin the headsize wire on the paper pattern, placing the joining on the